15 Curious remarks about Lebanon

After spending two weeks in the “Land of Cedars”, I have come up with this short list of observations derived from the local people’s daily life. Despite being a tiny country (around 200 X 50 Km), Lebanon offers so much in terms of social, cultural and landscape diversity.

Hence I am here presenting my humble, personal “inventory” of most striking aspects for a foreigner visiting the country for the first time. The list does not follow a “ranking” order, but just a random improvisation.

1. CUSTOM COFFEE VANS:

Since Lebanese love coffee and they live a quite busy, “street” life, they can easily rely on these itinerant coffee machines stored inside minivans parked along the road. Service is cheap, fast and efficient. It is also possible to receive the cup while waiting comfortably in one’s own vehicle. No stress.

2. SWARMING MINIVANS:

Although most of Lebanese own their private cars, there is nonetheless a good deal of citizens using this cheap, frequent and ever-present means. Fares for urban displacements are 1000 LL (around 0.55 Eur), whereas longer hauls are charged a bit more, normally around 2000 LL (approx. 1.10 Eur) for 50 Km stretches. The most curious part is you can stop them anywhere, even in the middle of the highway (which of course is walkable). Besides, they run one after another, meaning you only need to wait a few minutes before being able to flag them down. You can pay before or after the ride.

3. HONKING CARS:

Unfortunately this is quite common in all the Middle East area. They might resort to this annoying action to show impatience (very low tolerance), greet a friend, draw potential customers’ attention (e.g. for taxis) or even just for inexplicable habit or fun. You will get used after a while.

4. TRICKY TAXIS:

You will find a great amount of them everywhere. Sometimes even a bit obnoxious. The good thing is that especially in Beirut you can share a “Service” taxi (you have to explicitly ask to the driver if that is possible) for close-distance destinations. That has a fixed fare of 2000 LL (about 1.10 Eur). Otherwise for other places or the airport, a greater fee is applied. Note that for the airport you can also catch a minivan near the Al-Amin Mosque, which I paid 5000 LL (but you can also find for lower prices).

5. US DOLLARS ACCEPTED:

Currently the US Dollar has a fixed rate against the local Lebanese Pound (1500 LL = 1 US Dollar). In addition, you can withdraw at ATMs and pay directly with the US currency without even exchanging money. Pay attention, however, that for small amounts (e.g. in the minivans) they might round up the fare. Therefore it is always better to have some local currency at hand.

6. GREAT CUISINE:

Lebanese food is just amazing. Leaving aside the worldwide famous dishes like Hummus or Tabouleh, it includes so many varieties and combinations, for vegan, vegetarians and “carnivorous”. Although eating outside is generally a bit expensive, you may easily discover a good and affordable restaurant in many areas. In Beirut, I personally was used to have dinner either at “Le Chef” (Gouraud St.) or in my hostel “Saifi Urban Gardens” (Pasteur St.), in Gemmayzeh.

7. MILITARY CHECKPOINTS:

As a sort of nightmarish legacy of the past, soldiers and barriers are scattered everywhere, both in Beirut and along the main roads. Sometimes you might even see some tanks in the capital itself. The reason for that lies in the fact the country has been ravaged by oppressive wars since its independence (1943). In addition, the current conflict in Syria and Israel hostility are still representing real threats. You can effortlessly bump into refugees (mostly Palestinians and Syrians) camps in any part of the country. As a third element, the internal cultural and religious splits (there are about 20 official creeds nowadays) are fomenting rivalry and hence prudence by the government, always in precarious stability among the different religious confessions.

8. WAR SIGNS IN BEIRUT:

Besides the above-mentioned soldiers and checkpoints, there are also three “iconic” landmarks referring to the civil war (1975-90): the Holiday Inn Beirut, devastated by the bullet holes; The L’Orient-Le Jour newspaper building, still a skeletal remnant among the fancy Souks shops; and “The Egg”, formerly a modern cinema, now a decaying carcass. Yet, these are almost proud symbols of the city, witnessing the atrocious past to avoid in the future. Hence, most likely they will stay in place as such for long time I believe.

9. BEIRUT CENTRAL DISTRICT:

Gravitating around the French art-deco Nejmeh Square and its vintage Rolex Tower Clock, this part of the city is quite original because of the surrounding military checkpoints, the lack of vehicles and the scarcity of passers-by around. Devastated by the civil war, today this closely surveilled area hosts the Lebanese Parliament, the Lebanese Government headquarters, the Beirut Stock Exchange, the regional offices of the United Nations, International Labour Organization, UNESCO, and World Bank, as well as the headquarters of the ESCWA and the Union of Arab Banks. Hence maximum security is guaranteed.

10. POORLY PRESERVED UNESCO ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES:

Lebanon is one of the first cradles of the world civilization. Its fertile and strategically well-positioned area started to be inhabited by the Phoenicians since 1500 BCE, becoming then land of conquest for Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and so on. It is nevertheless a pity to realize how the monumental heritage left by these great peoples (and mostly under UNESCO’s protection nowadays) is experiencing a significant neglect, both in terms of infrastructure and preservation. Leaving aside there are always breaches around the fence to enter without paying the ticket, the major concern here impinges on the level of site conservation. Missing explanations, poor cleaning and stones scattered around covered with grass represent the common denominator in the ruins of Byblos, Tyre, Baalbek or others. Even in central Beirut excavations and maintenance are still far from being achieved. Maybe it is another sign of the typical roughness characterizing the Lebanese environment.

11. HEFTY STREET CONGESTION:

Unfortunately, due to the total lack of trains, metros or clean buses, roads in Beirut are replete with cars converging into chaotic traffic jams, especially in Beirut. I hope alternative means will be introduced soon to reduce noise, pollution and disorder.

12. BEIRUT GALLERIES:

By wandering about the streets of Beirut, you might discover so many interesting art galleries with very innovative exhibitions. In particular, Hamra and Gemmayzeh districts offer the best collection and display. In Hamra I would advise to have a look at Agial Art Gallery, Art Circle Gallery and Dar El-Nimer. In Gemmayzeh I would recommend Art Lab and Art on 56^th. Other suggested buildings are Beirut Art Center, Beirut Exhibition Center and Art Factum Gallery. Special mention to the “vintage” Beit Beirut, inside a dismantled palace downtown. Quite unique.

13. FRENCH VS. ENGLISH:

Despite the recent French occupation (until 1943), I have experienced a fairly marked prevalence of English speakers compared with French. Although French is still spoken by educated people and older generations, among the majority of the population English is taking the upper hand. The massive presence of the American University of Beirut is perhaps contributing to this overtaking.

14. QADISHA VALLEY:

With its dramatic gorges, its impressive waterfalls and its tiny, abandoned monasteries encased in the rocky walls, this part of Lebanon surely will catch your attention. You can set your exploring base in the quiet mountain village of Bcharre to then move by car or on foot down to the underlying places of worship or up to the high Cedars Forests (above 2000 m), where you can even ski. I personally walked around 3.5 Km from town through a steep, downhill trail leading to the stunning Deir Mar Elisha. From there then I caught a ride from another tourist going to Deir Qannoubin (approx. 5 Km far away on a “drivable” narrow road) and the annexed Chapel of Mar Marina. The following day, since it was a raining a lot, I could only reach Saydet Hawqa, about 10 Km from Bcharre toward Ehden. You may park the car close to the main road and follow the stairs downhill for 1 Km or so. Views from the monasteries to the opposite valley are spellbinding.

15. HEZBOLLAH:

This “organization” has strong and appreciated influence in several parts of the countries, notably in Southern Beirut, Tyre and beyond, and in the Bekaa’s Valley, where peddlers are trying to saddle you with even their characteristic T-shirts. Besides that, in Baalbek I could discern a repeated row of street signs paying tribute to the Scythe group. Dwellers in those and further areas seem however to be decisively supportive and grateful to them. They are considered a protective and leading core of the society.

All in all, Lebanon is an astonishing country with so many flaws and contradictions. However, it is exactly this controversial and heterogeneous spirit that makes the Land of Cedars very unique and fascinating. This wide variety of creeds, beliefs, ethnic groups, historical layers and landscapes truly represents the innermost essence of this anguished cradle of civilization. Finally, after so many tormented years of war, peace has imposed its feeble truce. For the time being.

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