Although I have been in Egypt for only one week, I could gather nonetheless some general impressions about this controversial country and its people. As most of you know, Egypt is still currently suffering from a serious backlash concerning its damaged international reputation as a safe land to visit for tourism. The critical break point occurred after the Arab Spring in 2011, when the former president Mubarak was overthrown by an uproarious popular revolt, similar to what happened in the neighboring countries. As a consequence, political instability started to spread and ravage, with a subsequent, ephemeral government (Muslim brotherhood) deposed in its turn by a military coup led by general Sisi in 2013. After that, a period of turbulent chaos ensued. We then began to hear of violent attacks, arbitrary arrests, mysterious kidnappings, targeted disappearances, and above all outrageous shootings or bombs against foreigners in until-then fully secured and renowned tourist destinations (e.g. Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh). All that contributed to diffuse worldwide the idea of anarchy and uncertainty across the entire country. All of a sudden, tourists started to look at other safer destinations and desert the glorious pyramids or the lavish resorts in Sinai.
This situation is quite known and easily consultable. Agreed. However, I would like now to share my personal experience in Alexandria, Cairo and Sinai. I have to admit that although I generally pay little attention to the mass media reports, I was indeed warily curious to check by myself on the spot. And I can already disclose my pleased satisfaction in seeing so many cheerful people welcoming you along the streets. In addition, I honestly never felt any sense of danger or insecurity. Not for even one second.
As far as the general security measures are concerned, there are at least two recurrent factors widespread in multiple cities:
- Thorough metal-detector scans at the entrance of museums and public attractions
- Ever-present military garrisons near all the non-Muslim places of worship (e.g. Coptic churches)
Let’s now go in deeper detail.
ALEXANDRIA:
I spent two days in the notorious “Pearl of the Mediterranean” and all went fantastically fine. I could walk around with no hassle at all, not even commercial vexation. Of course due to the drastic drop of tourists, you stand out quite a bit, depending on your clothes and attitude. Nevertheless I could easily reach any place or enter local restaurants or cafes without the faintest doubt. People were so kind and nice. Always “Welcome”! On a side note, I have to point out that compared with Cairo, Alexandria seemed afterwards so clean, quiet and peaceful!
CAIRO:
After spending four days in this huge megalopolis, I may confirm that I didn’t face a single problem either. I moved on foot, by metro and minivans without any major inconvenience. It goes without saying that the main discomfort in this hellish city is represented by chaos at all levels. However this is normal for a 20 million inhabitants conurbation. Plus this applies to all citizens in their daily life. As a result, I didn’t feel myself particularly observed or discriminated. On the contrary, many persons on the streets merrily greeted me and offered to help. No nuisance or unpleasant sensation whatsoever. The only things you have to worry about here are:
- Wearying noise and pollution
- Stressing, ceaseless traffic (be prepared to learn how to cross streets in the “Egyptian way”)
- Thick gatherings in the narrow alleys (especially in the old Islamic part).
To then make your stay more comfortable, try maybe to avoid hot months (from May on). I was in Mid-March with no much trouble.
You may now even take advantage of the scarcity in tourists around. Along my 15 – 20 Kilometres walked in any direction each day, I hardly spotted foreigners (apart from the pyramids site). I felt in a way quite unique and could effortlessly explore the most local meanders of the city, unconcerned about safety, security or even my personal belongings (I remember I was always walking with my wallet in the rear pocket of my trousers even). Besides, most of the attractions in the centre are at walkable distance. And for Giza pyramids, you just need to take a metro + bus from Sadat station.
SINAI:
This is actually the trickiest area. Since most of the foreigners come or used to come here, it has recently been a recurrent target for terrorists. Moreover, due to its arid remoteness, it has always been a stronghold for tough Bedouins groups dealing with smuggling, robbery and kidnapping. Finally, it is also a huge region very difficult to take control on. The presence of ruthless organizations like Isis or al-Qaeda has also been detected in the past.
That being said, the situation here is improving a lot:
- Military forces are now extending and intensifying anti-terrorist raids against several enemies (see above)
- Several military checkpoints have been installed along the roads and at the entrance of the tourist main destinations. That is a bit annoying in terms of delay as you will be asked to show your passport at least four times coming from Cairo. Furthermore, your bag(s) will be inspected at least twice (to search for weapons). All in name of security.
- Ordinary buses are avoiding “unsafe” roads across the desert. They instead follow the coastal itinerary through Sharm and Dahab. Personally I was denied a direct bus from Cairo to Nuweiba (crossing a little bit the desert) because foreigners are not permitted to take internal roads (that is still a bit unclear though).
- When departing from Nuweiba port, you will be passing through multiple passport and luggage checks to ensure security.
Since I only spent one night in Nuweiba, I am not thus able to provide more solid evidence to my overall thesis. Notwithstanding, I could truly observe a tight control and massive presence of the army here to prevent atrocious crimes from happening again. Moreover, I could perceive a general looseness when shortly walking around or talking with people.
As for the great advantages you receive when visiting Egypt now, I may mention the following:
- Cheap prices for everything (due to the currency devaluation).
- More sense of unique experience when moving around
- Welcoming people
- Better bargaining at hostels / hotels (due to the lack of demand)
- Almost no need to reserve anything in advance, even in the weekends.
All together, I can’t but confirm once again that my personal perception of safety in Egypt was extremely positive. I would have liked perhaps to stay longer or explore further areas to offer more proofs. However, I definitely think that the situation here is changing for the better (but don’t talk too much about politics with people as they don’t like it : ).
For the time being, relax and come to visit a very affordable and welcoming country. Maybe in the future these “privileged” conditions could unfortunately vanish. In the end, full security could even mean less fun. Think about it.
