I would like to provide here a quick update about my experience when travelling from Egypt to Jordan by boat. As a brief introduction, I have to say that my initial plan was reaching Jordan overland through Taba border crossing (Egypt) and the short strip of Israeli land named Eilat. Nevertheless, given my intention to continue my trip across Iraq, Iran and Pakistan, I preferred to avoid any risk of being rejected there because of my exit stamp from Taba border control.
The only way then to unmistakably enter Jordan overland without passing through Israel, is exactly the Nuweiba – Aqaba ferry boat. No other possible routes.
I am hence glad to share with you all the current practicalities I faced when following this charming itinerary.
TIMETABLE:
Unlikely stated on the company website, the boat has no fixed departure time. At least one crossing should be guaranteed per day though. Often even two.
The first crossing is normally scheduled in the morning, between 9 and 10 am. When buying the ticket the previous day (the office is located a few hundred meters next to the port, a bit anonymous), I was told to show up around 8 am at the office to get confirmed the exact departure time. The following day indeed they sent me straight to the port for boarding.
The second crossing, if any, should occur around 1 pm. But this is more risky. I would definitely advise to be ready for the first round.
WHEN TO ARRIVE TO NUWEIBA:
The safest way to catch the boat on time is therefore arriving to Nuweiba the previous day for the reasons below:
- You can buy the ticket in advance to all purposes (guarantee your seat and save time the following day);
- If you are coming from Cairo by bus (only public transport overland), you generally are not able to make it before even 1 pm. I tested myself in catching the bus from Cairo (East Delta bus company from El Turgoman station) at 11.45 pm the previous night. Indeed I only got as far as Nuweiba around 12.45 am the day after. Besides the infinite military checkpoints (4 passport checks and 2 luggage controls), you have also to switch bus in Dahab, as foreigners are not allowed to take the direct bus to Nuweiba by night. Plus the bus from Dahab to Nuweiba was 30 min late. You had thus better to take it easy and spend one night in the quiet and rewarding Nuweiba. I got even great discount there in the sea-facing al Sayadeen Village Read Sea Riviera resort, located at just 500 metres from the port. They are in such low demand nowadays that you can bargain almost a 50 % reduction. Moreover, you have private beach and breakfast included as well!
- You will enjoy the relaxing calmness and peaceful waters of this out-of-mainstream little village, not so popular among tourists.
TICKET PRICE:
The ferry ticket is quite expensive indeed. It is 75 USD. It includes everything though. No need to pay any other port or departure taxes. Since I luckily had dollars with me, I didn’t face much trouble. They accepted US cash quite easily and gave me dollars back. I am honestly not sure if you may pay with other currencies or methods. Better to have multiple alternatives just in case. Remember to bring your passport when purchasing the ticket.
BOARDING:
As mentioned above, better to show up around 8 am at the port. The boarding procedure is very lengthy. They will check you twice for the luggage (implemented security measures) and several times for the passport. It could take as long as 1 hour indeed. No assigned seats inside the ferry. Sit wherever it pleases you.
CROSSING DURATION:
Although they say the trip takes 3 hours, actually it lasted less than 2 hours. I set off around 10 am and arrived in Aqaba a few minutes before 12 am. So very fast indeed.
PROCEDURES AT AQABA PORT:
Again all the bureaucratic formalities took around 1 hour. I was actually a bit unlucky to arrive on a Friday there. And I was the only foreigner inside the boat! Despite I was immediately taken aside, I had to wait quite a while before getting my free visa (you are entitled to a 30 days free visa as part of the free-trade agreement with the Aqaba Special Economic Zone Area (ASEZA)), a stamp on it and all the face-detecting scans. It was later very unclear how to go out from those offices. I afterwards realized I had to go downstairs through a luggage control too.
Before exiting you may find an exchange stall (it was very busy though at my arrival) and a food shop too. At the exit, then, you will be asked quite insistently if you need a taxi.
Unfortunately, I could not find any bus or minivan to Aqaba city centre, located at around 9 Km from the harbour. The taxi ride should cost about 5 JD (approx. 6 Eur). Alternatively, I started to walk under the sun and surprisingly got a lift by a generous driver. It therefore went quite well in the end.
To conclude, I would say that navigating across the crystalline Red Sea was a very nice experience. Although the ticket price is a bit overrated, with the free visa you may compensate a great part of the cost. Actually you end up paying only around 20 dollars for this beautiful crossing. It hence turns out to be not so expensive after all. I hope you will enjoy it as well.
