For me the around 1000 Kilometers separating Erbil (Iraq) from Tehran (Iran) have been a rewarding adventure. It is indeed a long journey lasting about 24 hours to be fully completed. It goes through very different landscapes and cultural areas. It goes across two countries for long time at war with each other and still mutually resentful because of religious and political reasons. But let’s focus on the trip.
Since there is almost no public transportation, the only way to move in Iraqi Kurdistan is either by hitchhiking or taxi. Although shared taxis for long hauls are not that expensive, it is nonetheless cheaper and more intrepid to try to get a lift from normal cars. For foreigners it is generally very fast and safe. After catching more than 30 lifts there, I may provide some evidence to support this thesis.
Sometimes, however, it is not entirely clear whether it is a private vehicle or a “disguised” taxi. Although 90 % of taxis are beige with red plates, still a minority work illegally without any identification. As warning hints, non official taxis could be recognized from one or more of these distinctive signs:
1) Mostly white cars
2) A registration year sticker is glued on the rear window
3) An information paper is stuck on the windshield
4) In the vehicle you see at least (or more) 2 people.
If still in doubt, just ask the driver if it is a taxi or not. It happened to me a couple of times as well. In that case, ask him to stop as soon as possible.
Like everywhere in the world, it is however very difficult to hitchhike inside a big city. You should in any case try to walk or take a taxi towards the outskirts. In my case, I was lucky to be led by my amiable couchsurfing host Hozan to as far as Salahaddin, from where I could easily get the following lift.
From Iraqi Kurdistan you have two possible ways (for sure open to foreigners) to reach overland Iran:
1) The scenic Hamilton Road in the North, passing through Haji Omeran border crossing.
2) The handy Sulaymaniyah – Sanandaj road in the South, stretching from one Kurdistan (Iraq) to the other (Iran) through the Penjwen – Bashmaq border crossing.
As for me, leaving from Erbil and having already visited Sulaymaniyah, I opted for the first alternative. The second choice is interesting for the following reasons:
1) Sulaymaniyah is very pleasurable to explore
2) There should be public transportation from there to Sanandaj (to be checked though)
3) You may compare the two sides of Kurdistan.
4) It is about 100 Km shorter than the Northern way.
Nevertheless, the Hamilton Road in the North is equally fascinating and inspiring. It all winds inside a beautiful gorge skirting a mountain river. You will pass through Salahaddin, Shaqlawa, Gali Ali Bag waterfall, Soran, Choman and finally Haji Omeran, located at the border with Iran at a panoramic altitude of 3000 meters. Between Choman and Haji Omeran you will be able to discern all the stunning snowy tops (e.g. Halgurd) in the surroundings.
After three easy lifts, I quickly went as far as Soran. There I had to walk a bit to exit the city and find a favourable hitchhiking spot. A car swiftly stopped and collected me. Nonetheless, it only progressed for few Kilometres, until the umpteenth military checkpoint in Iraqi Kurdistan, where I got discharged and left with the Peshmergas soldiers for passport control and investigation (it might happen to foreigners in Iraqi Kurdistan, don’t worry !). The soldiers behaved very friendly and nicely. They even tried to ask some truck drivers on my behalf if they were going to the border. Eventually, after some minutes, a lorry stopped and took me in. He was exactly going to the border!
In spite of the fact the driver could not speak English, I had quite good time with him and his truck. He seemed totally amicable and well-disposed. He handed me a sweet; stopped in front of Halgurd mountain for a selfie; and even accompanied me to change some money before the border. As a matter of fact, there are a few shops in Haji Omeran hamlet (3-4 Kilometers before the border) where you can exchange Iraqi Dinars to Iranian Rials at decent rates. I advise to do it there if possible.
At the border “my driver” took the way to customs, leaving me exactly at the entrance. When I was there, it seemed all very quiet. Just few cars and people. No major issues. The entire process (Iraq – Iran) takes all together about 1 hour. You have to stamp out and in your passport; get your luggage checked a few times and, as a side note, purchase an insurance for your stay in Iran. The cost was 5000 Iraqi Dinars or 200,000 Iranian Rials. Both are accepted. Even US dollars I believe. Remember, however, that in Iran International cards do not work. You can check my previous article about Iran for that.
After crossing the border, you have to reach the closest city in Iran named Piranshahr, situated at approximately 10 kilometers downhill. You will see some taxi drivers standing there for assistance. As a stubborn backpacker, though, I tried to hitchhike a private car. Nevertheless, as it often happens in Iran, you end up in a disguised taxi. Almost impossible to predict. Notwithstanding, the car was very cheap (around 40,000 Rials, less than a euro) and fast. It dropped me right in front of the Piranshahr bus terminal. Right on time to catch the direct bus to Tehran.
When leaving from Erbil, actually, you have to calculate the exact time to get to Piranshahr bus station in order not to miss the night buses leaving to Tehran. Consider also there is 1.5 hour time zone difference between Iraq and Iran.
Since night buses to Tehran (there are no daily buses) leave at 18 or 20 h, you had better to set out from Erbil no later than 9 or maximum 10 am, to avoid any risk getting stuck at night in Piranshahr.
In terms of buses, you can normally choose two or three companies with very similar services and fares. I managed to slightly reduce the price from 590,000 to 550,000 IRR (a bit less than 10 euro). Buses are comfortable “VIP” (no Mahmooly version provided) and offer some “free” snacks and drinks inside. All together the trip takes 12 hours. Final destination Tehran Azadi Station, in the west part of the city.
After leaving about 30 minutes later than expected (18.30 h), the bus stopped quite a few times. There are two or three compulsory police check points in the first stretch of the journey where you will be asked your passport. In addition, two or three recreational halts (one for dinner at around 21 h, one hour long) to fulfill physiological needs.
If you take the 18 h bus from Piranshahr, you should be able to reach Tehran Azadi around 6 am the following day then, right on time for when the metro starts to work there.
Although quite extenuating, the journey from Erbil to Tehran is awesome. The Kurdish hitchhiking experience, the thrilling border crossing and the night bus in Iran, are all touching events which will radiate new colourful light upon your unforgettable overland trip in Middle East. A trip to be continued…
