After about one month spent in Iraqi Kurdistan, I have gathered quite a good deal of information about this wonderful region in a still tormented country (Iraq). I would like hence to share my delightful experience with anybody deciding to venture into this genuine and authentic land, able to offer true and original impressions even to expert, disenchanted travelers.
First of all, let me say that in no occasion I could perceive any form of risk or danger during all my stay there. I felt indeed so safe and respected that in no moment I thought I had made a mistake in buying my flight to Erbil. On the contrary, I was eventually very sad and melancholic at the time of leaving to Iran. But let’s go in detail.
After getting so close to an historical independence in October 2017, Iraqi Kurdistan had regrettably to withdraw its garrisons from the disputed territory of Kirkuk, finally left in the hands of the Iraqi governmental forces. As threatening retaliation, moreover, Iraqi government closed the International Kurdish airspace for a few months until March 2018. In addition, they put pressure on the now-ally Iran to shut down even their land border crossings with Iraqi Kurdistan. The outcome was that Erbil finally was compelled to pledge loyalty to Baghdad to regain International outlet.
Despite all this recent turmoil, security conditions keep being very good for locals and foreigners there. Although it is no longer so easy to reach Kirkuk now (you need an official Iraqi visa), the rest of the region is still in the safe hands of the brave local soldiers, called Peshmergas, which prevented any infiltration of Daesh or other criminal organizations in the last years. Furthermore, they could at least guarantee the survival of the regional autonomy.
That being said, I would now like to focus on each single point related to security conditions.
1) ERBIL AIRPORT
I reached Iraqi Kurdistan from Amman (Jordan) after an easy 2 hours flight. As a European, I was not requested any formal visa. Just a simple stamp (30 days valid) on the passport. A free bus shuttle will drive you then closer to the exit, located a few hundred meters from the arrival terminal. From there, I started to walk with my showy backpack for more than 8 Km towards the city center (by the way the airport is at a walkable distance from the city). No hassle or inconvenience to be reported. Only a few taxi drivers offering their services.
2) ERBIL CITY
Same description applies to the Iraqi Kurdistan capital. I could effortlessly walk for tens of Kilometres in any direction, any hour of the day without problems whatsoever, apart from the long distances. Although sometimes a bit curious, local people won’t approach or bother you at all. Furthermore, you can even walk with your wallet on the rear pocket without fear : ) It is actually much safer than European cities of the same size. Compared with other big metropolis in the Middle East, traffic is fairly orderly and reasonable; whereas taxis may be found everywhere (there is no clear public transportation yet). Drivers are very friendly.
3) SULAYMANIYAH
Endowed with an International airport as well, this lively city in the South-Eastern part of the region is quite authentic and beautiful. It somehow preserves even more visibly some traditional sights of Kurdistan. At the same time, it also enjoys some more freedom than Erbil itself in habits and customs. The only incident to report here concerns a stroll I had on a paved road towards Goyzha and Azmar hills (right behind the city), when I got suddenly stopped and asked to show my mobile phone to PUK (Patriotic Union of Kurdistan party) security members. They wanted to make sure I was not taking any picture of sensitive areas (e.g. party houses) in Sulaymaniyah’s heights. I am sure that the upcoming political elections in that period favoured more cautious measures. Apart from this minor mishap, I fully relished the same freedom I had in Erbil.
4) COUCHSURFING IN IRAQI KURDISTAN
One of my best experiences ever. I could stay for almost one month in the same house in Erbil with my host Hozan with maximum comfort and easiness. We ended up becoming attached friends eventually. In Sulaymaniyah I had even the chance to stay in a modern hotel for free as a special guest. People in Kurdistan are very generous and hospitable.
5) HITCHHIKING IN IRAQI KURDISTAN
Again, one of my best experiences. I could facilely get more than 30 lifts to various destinations around the entire region. Apart from some disguised taxis, I never faced any inconvenience. I always had the feeling I was with kind and wary people. Moreover, when standing on the road, I had to wait almost no time to get collected by a car. Although hitchhiking is not so popular and fully understood in this region, drivers were always attracted by a mixed sense of innate helpfulness and provoked curiosity when discerning an unusual foreigner along the road. Take into consideration that you only have two ways to travel across Kurdistan: private car or taxi. Public transportation is still not very common unfortunately.
6) PESHMERGAS AND MILITARY CHECKPOINTS
In travelling around you will surely bump into one of the several military checkpoints scattered in the region. They are designed to keep the area safe and monitored. They are controlled by the affable local soldiers called Peshmergas. Although they rarely might ask you for an ID (I almost always showed my national ID without problems), in most of cases they only nod or wave at you as a sign of green light. Just nod back or wave at them to avoid any suspicion. You can even try to say a few simple words such as “Bashi kaka ?” (= “You doing good Sir ?”). Only in a couple of situations I had to step out of the vehicle for further clarification and investigation. I got cleared in few minutes anyway.
Only in Akre it took a bit of time. While walking along the Syrian Refugee Camp, I received a prompt visit from a stopping car. A few soldiers got off and asked me what I was doing there, inviting me to simultaneously hand my passport and follow them to a near police station. Resolved the misunderstanding with an English speaker, I could walk out freely after a few minutes.
7) LAND MINES:
Although I was personally a bit afraid of mines when hiking even on small hills close to the road, I was repeatedly assured that they should be all dismantled by now. Only a few of them still lay on arduous mountain areas at the border with Iran and Turkey. Keep away exclusively from those remote points.
8) HIKES AND TREKKINGS OFFROAD
Besides being one of the most amazing activities in Kurdistan, trekking on hills or mountains is very safe and advised. Just beware of the land mines areas (near the borders) and maybe some wild animals if spending the night in a tent : )
9) REGISTRATION AT THE RESIDENCY OFFICE
Although technically you should register within 10 or 15 days from the date of arrival, I was not questioned at all at the moment of leaving the country, after almost one month.
10) LEAVING TO IRAN (VIA HAJI OMERAN)
Please see my previous article about this topic.
All in all I had really fantastic time in Iraqi Kurdistan. Friendly people, amazing hosts and helpful drivers made all my stay here very comfortable and unforgettable. The country looked 100 % safe and reliable in all the parts I was to. No doubt about it. I would thus recommend it without restrictions to all the adventurous travellers ready for a different experience in a still genuine land in the world.
