The 357 Km stretch from Kargil to Darcha, in India, is probably one of the most impressive adventures I have been through during my entire travelling activity. Besides being an off-the-beaten-track itinerary, it above all represents a stark leap into the past, in a no-comfort zone made of desolate, barren landscapes and lack of infrastructures and facilities. It is still a genuine piece of land not touched by mass tourism, at least until the full road will be built in a few years. The journey certainly requires much adaptability (no Internet, no phone signal, no shower, intermittent electricity, irregular hot water, essential food and accommodation, etc.) and preparation for high altitude (up to 5090 meters) and trekking or horse riding. I totally spent 7 days to reach Darcha. This is the detailed description of my journey:
DAY 1 – FROM KARGIL TO PARKATCHIK (SURU VALLEY), 82 KM – 5 HOURS BY BUS
This is the easiest part. There is a daily, “vintage” bus run by Jammu & Kashmir Road Transport Corporation leaving at about 11 am (flexible) behind the central Kargil bus stand. The ticket is very cheap (112 INR) but the journey quite burdensome, due to the awful road conditions. You may find inexpensive food (main dish 100 INR) and accommodation (400 INR/night) in Parkatchik (3500 meters a.s.l.) at the excellent-value J&K Alpine Tourist Bungalow, on the upper road. Just ask around. Bear in mind there is no Internet, no shower, no hot water, no heating and electricity just from 8 to 10 pm. The only available meal is rice with vegetables.
DAY 2 – FROM PARKATCHIK TO PADUM, 147 KM – 10 HOURS BY CAR (HITCHHIKING)
At the end of Parkatchik hamlet, where the two roads (upper and lower) meet, there is a conventional stopping point (with two basic food stalls) used by drivers to rest and have tea or some frugal meals. If you stand there in the morning or early afternoon, you might find some trucks or jeeps going to Padum. I had to wait around 6 hours before being able to catch a ride. That is due to the limited number of vehicles passing through and the fact that most of these vehicles come already full from Kargil. Nevertheless, in the end the long wait paid off. The road is really rough and unpredictable. Only after a few kilometres we were stopped by a “normal” landslide which retained us for about 1 hour, until we could manually remove the stones with the help of other travellers. In all the way there are just a couple of tiny villages. After Penzi La pass (4494 m a.s.l.) you officially enter the flat, lunar Zanskar Valley. The path to Padum (3500 meters a.s.l.) is just a dull descent on a gravelly road. Ultimately I was lucky to be picked up by guys running a guest house in Padum. We arrived there very late at pitch dark. Besides the road conditions, you have also to stop a few times for passport registration. Despite being the biggest town (1500 dwellers) in all the valley, Padum only offers very limited services and facilities. For example, you may only find (slow) satellite internet in a couple of “cyber-cafes” at an expensive “per-minute” rate.
DAY 3 – PADUM – KARSHA – PADUM – 22 KM – WALKING + HITCHHIKING
The dusty, barren road leading to Karsha is somehow void of interest. However, Karsha is quite an original small hamlet endowed with a big, fascinating Buddhist monastery nestled in the rock and overlooking the entire valley. You might walk for 2-3 hours (plus return) or try to hitchhike along the way, which is normally not so difficult if you are alone or two people.
DAY 4 – PADUM – STONGDE – PADUM – 24 KM – WALKING + HITCHHIKING
The same applies here. The tiny hamlet of Stongde is particularly renowned for its overlooking monastery housing a locally popular Buddhist “festival” (two days in a row every year between June and July) with noteworthy events. Remember that the monastery is on the mountain above Stongde village. There is both a “paved” car road from behind or a trekking shortcut from the front. You can easily hitchhike to get here.
DAY 5 – FROM PADUM TO AMNU – 40 KM – 7 HOURS BY WALKING + HITCHHIKING
After Padum you enter the wildest and most authentic part of the valley. Some tourists undertake this road until Phuktal (for the famous monastery). Very few continue past that point. There is nonetheless a dirty car road until the village of Amnu. Since I had no private transportation, I decided to walk and hitchhike, as usual. It took me about 7 hours to complete the stretch. I successfully caught three lifts from road builders (two in a truck) and walked the desolate final part from Ichar to Amnu (10 Km), where I could only spot two cars passing by. There is natural water along the way you may drink. The village of Amnu has only 2 homestays. The “upper” one offers for 800 INR (approx. 10 euros) austere accommodation plus full board meals (basic, of course). No Internet, no phone signal, no shower, no hot water, shanty toilets, etc.
DAY 6 – FROM AMNU TO KARGYAK – 31 KM – 10 HOURS BY WALKING
This is definitely the most strenuous part. After a couple of kilometres past Amnu the road stops and you have to follow on a trail. There is immediately a scary, shaky bridge to cross on a river. Afterwards you step on an up-and-down path passing across several hamlets distanced a few kilometres one another. There you may stop for water, tea or basic supplies. Villagers will greet and welcome you with pleasure and amazement. I did not encounter any foreign hikers along the route. Only few local dwellers. Although the trail is not that steep, you have to cope with high altitude (above 4000 meters) and solitary atmosphere, especially alone. Finally, in Kargyak you will be able to find some cheap, primitive homestays.
DAY 7 – FROM KARGYAK TO DARCHA – 63 KM – 9 HOURS BY HORSE RIDING + HITCHHIKING
Another intense segment. Since I was carrying over 20 Kg luggage and I was supposed to cross the arduous Shingo La pass (5090 meters), I had to charter a horse for this expedition. I could bargain down the price for horse to 600 INR / day. However, you need two horses: one for you and one for your guide. In order to avoid being stuck in the middle of nowhere or finding bad weather on the top, it is advisable to set off very early in the morning. Although it is only 22 Km from Kargyak to Shingo La, the painful ride will take approximately 6 hours. Even in summer you will have to struggle with low temperatures and frustratingly slow pace. There is just one resting point in between: Lakang Tea tent. There you might drink or eat something. Past this shack, the trail rears up and creates breathing and riding problems. I was quite lucky to be accompanied by an English-speaking young horseman helping me a lot here. The top seems to be never on sight. In some occasions you are obliged to step down the horse and walk on the slippery snowy layers. On the summit, the temperature is very low and breathing quite troublesome. Of course, there is no public transportation. The closest stopping point is about 20 Km downhill. Again, the best trick is walking and waiting for hitchhiking, which after a few kilometres came true. First, I could flag down a jeep and subsequently (and incredibly) an empty minivan, which was heading for Darcha, on the Manali – Leh road, back to civilization. I got to Darcha around 3 pm. There you may easily find a place to sleep. Still essential facilities though.
To conclude, although this journey was exhausting, I felt overall satisfaction upon its successful completion. The reasons behind were:
- I did it totally alone (apart the final part)
- I was all the time carrying my heavy backpacks
- I saw places and people outside the used, civilized world
All in all, I greatly cherished this uncustomary experience. You do not need tent or supplies, as you will bump into several welcoming hamlets along the way. Just be prepared to some primitive sacrifices : )
