Thailand works as a vital access corridor for overlanders to the Equatorial Southeastern Asia composed by Malaysia, Brunei, Singapore, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. It hence virtually opens the door to a quite different part of the world, with thousands of tropical islands scattered around across thousands of kilometers.
Although in the past Southern Thailand was territory of sectarian violence and problems even for travellers, it has nowadays fully recovered its placid safety along all the boundary with Malaysia.
There are currently up to 8 options to cross the border between Thailand and Malaysia, by road, rail or ferry:
1) Wang Prachan (TH) – Wang Kelian (MY) (by road)
2) Padang Besar (TH) – Padang Besar (MY) (by road / rail)
3) Ban Dan Nok (TH) – Bukit Kayu Hitam (MY) (by road)
4) Betong (TH) – Pengkalan Hulu / Bukit Berapit (MY) (by road)
5) Buketa (TH) – Bukit Bunga (MY) (by road)
6) Sungai Kolok (TH) – Rantau Panjang (MY) (by road / rail)
7) Satun Tammalang (TH) – Langkawi / Kuala Perlis (MY) (by ferry)
8) Ko Lipe (TH) – Langkawi (MY) (by ferry)
In this post, however, I will only focus on the most common and easiest option: my fresh experience as an overlander through the Thai – Malaysian land border crossing in Padang Besar.
1) MINIVAN FROM HAT YAI TO PADANG BESAR – 57 KM – 1 HOUR
At the Hat Yai Bus Terminal head for the Ticket Counter and book in advance your seat. Buses leave anyway every 15 – 20 minutes until 6 pm. The ticket costs 50 THB. However, it is better to hide your backpacks to avoid any extra charge (minivans are quite cramped inside). Once you have purchased the ticket, just walk a few meters away to platform 24. Wait there until somebody warns you.
The bus exactly drops you in front of the border checkpost. You have just to cross the road paying attention you enter the left side of the Thai immigration building.
2) THAI EMIGRATION PROCEDURES
Unfortunately, this is quite a busy border crossing. Nevertheless, as a foreigner, you somehow have to “skip” the queue and directly knock at Supervisor’s door for immediate assistance. I was regrettably told that by the emigration officers after standing in the queue for some time. Just take the left sideline corridor leading to the Supervisor’s office on the left. Sometimes she might even not be there. In that case, of course, just wait.
No luggage or customs checks are carried out here if you cross on foot. You are easily free to go. After exiting the door, you have to walk for around 500 meters in a no men’s land area between the two checkposts.
3) MALAYSIAN IMMIGRATION PROCEDURES
Very straightforward if crossing on foot. You will get an easy stamp without forms to fill out or questions. Most nationalities get 90 days free stay. Again no luggage or customs checks. Perhaps the simplest entry stamp in all my trip ! And the officer very friendly and laidback.
4) TO THE TRAIN STATION
It is a really short walk from the border control to Padang Besar (Malaysia) train station. Notwithstanding, the path is not indicated at all. Immediately after stamping in, you should turn all the way right and cross a couple of border roads until you reach a covered staircase leading to the train station. Once at the train station, your real problems will start. At least for me. In short, there are no ATMs nor Money Exchange Offices there. As a consequence, either you have already carried local Ringgit with you or you have a couple of options left:
- You buy the Train ticket (11.40 RM) using Thai Bath accepted at a very poor exchange rate (10 to 1 instead of the proper 8 to 1) and wait other places to change your money or withdraw.
- You can exchange Thai Bath into Ringgit at that very poor rate (above) in one of the cafes around, which of course would not be wise.
- You can even try to exit the train station (about 1 Km) and see if you can find ATMs or honest Money Changers more in the town.
In addition, if you pay the ticket in Thai Baht, you only receive Malaysian Ringgit back, all changed at the dishonest 10 to 1 rate. If then, like it unluckily happened to me, you only have big Baht notes, then you must suffer the most unfair consequences.
In my modest opinion, it is almost a scandal there are no ATMs or Money Changers in an international train station. I guess they want to keep it like that to take some advantage out of unfortunate travellers.
My best piece of advice is either to exchange your Thai Baht on the Thai side or at least try to carry small notes to only pay for the train (which costs 114 THB). The rest you can change it later in Butterworth or George Town.
Once you have hopefully sorted these issues out, you may catch the train to Butterworth due every hour until about 12 pm.
5) THE TRAIN TO BUTTERWORTH – 189 KM – 2 HOURS
This train operated by KTM is indeed a fast metro with several stops in between. It has totally Western standards with a/c, electronic panels and pleasant comforts. It is however quite overcrowded during daytime. Better then to be quite swift in taking a seat when boarding. In approx. 2 hours you will reach the terminus in Butterworth central train station, handily connected by a passageway to the ferry heading for the opposite George Town. The train is moreover synchronized with the ferry departure times, as late as past midnight.
6) THE FERRY FROM BUTTERWORTH TO GEORGE TOWN – 5 KM – 15 MINUTES
This is the last, enjoyable part of the journey. Ferry leaves every 20 minutes from near the train station (Penang Sentral Shopping Mall). As said above, it is only a short walk inside the building. The ticket costs 1.20 RM. There are no comforts or seats inside this big boat, mostly designed for vehicles. You may just stand on the parking sides gazing at the approaching island and its peculiar skyline. Nevertheless it is really a short trip. The disembarkation is close to the city center and all amenities, at a pleasurable walking distance.
SUMMARY
It takes about 7 – 8 hours to reach George Town from Hat Yai. Although it seems quite a long displacement, in fact it is fairly smooth and even entertaining, with a lot of engaging changes. Border formalities, customs checks and transportation are all uncomplicated and effortless. Departure times and places are well synchronized and connected. The only detected issue regarded the money exchange operation, which still needs to be carefully taken care of. Apart from that, you are now ready to enjoy this charming Unesco World Heritage city (George Town), really worth some hassle.
