How to cross the El Ceibo border from Palenque (Mexico) to Flores (Guatemala)

After 76 enjoyable days in Mexico, I finally was ready to step into Guatemala and, consequently, Central America. Although the original plan was entering through Belize, I had finally and regrettably  to switch route due to the lamentable Covid-19 swab positivity at Santa Elena border.

As a result, from Bacalar (Quintana Roo), I moved all the way back to Palenque (Chiapas) with a night bus to undertake a different path leading towards Flores, Peten, Guatemala. Just to be exhaustive, you have two methods to cross the little trodden El Ceibo border: either you hire a “door-to-door” tour company leaving near the ADO station  or other places (such as NichimTours, AdrenalinaTours or MarvelusTours, which effortlessly avoids you any change and costs you between 700 and 1000 MXN) or you can just independently behave like a local and spend 3 or 4 times less. The latter only implies a couple of transfers, few kilometres on foot and a pinch of adventure spirit. It goes without saying that as an old school backpacker, I personally picked up the second option. This is how it went in detail.

• PALENQUE – TENOSIQUE DE PINO SUÁREZ (Tabasco) MINIVAN: this is the first step you need to carry out. It is pretty much straightforward. You just need to head for the Colectivos (minivans) bus terminal in Palenque city centre from 3.45 AM on, with regular departures every less than an hour (see schedule and location below). Indeed there are two neighbouring companies one beside the other. The journey takes around 2.30 hours and with the colectivo leaving you at the entrance of the town. Fare is 90 MXN.

• WALK FROM TENOSIQUE MINIVAN STATION TO EL CEIBO DEPARTURE POINT: the pleasant stroll covers about 2.5 Km (30 min) and if done through the unpaved Calle Marina and the Usumacinta River embankment, really turns out to be fairly scenic. The alternative would be an unnecessary taxi. The set off point for El Ceibo border town stands just behind the Mercado Publico Lic. Manuel Barlett Bautista, as shown in the following map.

• TENOSIQUE – EL CEIBO MINIVAN: The cramped minivan leaves every hour at half hour time (e.g. 8.30, 9.30, 10.30, etc.). The cost is 50 MXN and the itinerary lasts about 1 hour. You are left at around 700 meters from the border. Easy stuff.

• WALK ACROSS THE BORDER: this is a solitary, hassle-free border crossing without major issues. As usual, you only need to stamp out Mexico and follow towards the anonymous Guatemala little immigration building. Immigration officers were very laidback and did not pose any questions at all. For my personal quietness, I even printed off two Covid-19 PCR proofs, which in the end turned out to be not strictly mandatory. A couple in front of me did not have any Covid test and were allowed to enter only with some apologies : ) As a matter of fact, as of 10^th January 2022 Guatemala should require both the test (PCR or antigen) and the vaccination pass. The latter can be easily shown as a digital certificate on your smartphone. No need to print it. No entry fee required either.
• ENTER EL CEIBO (GUATEMALA): After stamping in at the Guatemala immigration house, you only need to keep walking for about 500 meters to then overcome a blue gate. From there on you are in the town free to roam. There are a couple of shops just beyond the gate where you may exchange your Mexican pesos. The second shop on the right is indeed better with fairer exchange rates (as of 24^th Jan 2022, 2.5 MXN = 1 GTQ). In El Ceibo you can also find pharmacies, restaurants and mini shops as well.

• EL CEIBO – SANTA ELENA MINIVAN: unfortunately when I got there, I was faced with a national strike paralyzing all the transportation. Regularly, right after the border, minivans are waiting for you to bring passengers directly to Santa Elena for 60 GTQ. Not sure about the timetable but they should run with a certain frequency until 4 pm. The stretch should take approximately 4 hours and a half (to Santa Elena). From Santa Elena you have then to walk or take a tuk-tuk for about 10 GTQ to go as far as Flores, probably your final destination.
• MY EXPERIENCE INSTEAD: due to national protests, I went through all sorts of hindrances and bad news. No public transportation was available until Flores. Together with a couple I met at the border, I was hence compelled to move forward with local strategies. After being slyly approached by idle people on the street ridiculously asking for 100 GTQ to just marshal us up to the first roadblock (20 Km ahead), we wisely resolved to stop a car offering the driver a symbolic reward of 20 GTQ each. At the roadblock, then, we got disincentivized to follow because of subsequent roadblocks along the way. We listened to the pieces of advice there. I thus hired a young guy riding a bike to be brought as far as El Naranjo (13 Km inland) where I spent the night waiting for good news, while indulging myself with totally local experiences in a remote ranch (a guy randomly picked us up in the centre and proudly wanted to show us his humble farm and kind family).  The following day, given the fact that the strike was still on (again without public transportation available), I was very determined to reach Flores at any cost. The best part is that without paying even a single penny, I was so warmly helped by locals in all ways. I got a bike ride from El Naranjo to Lagunitas crossroad (and roadblock). I straight away successfully managed to walk through the block to then be able to catch another bike hitchhiking. Luckily, then, I received two more free rides (Guatemala people are extremely helpful) from a car and a pickup, which led me directly to Flores. In 4 hours I therefore succeeded in getting to Flores without spending even one cent and enjoying absolutely amazing, local villages together with cheerful countryside drivers. Really a top adventure, which anyway you can still live yourselves even without strikes, if you are risk-friendly : )

To summarize, you have two main options to travel from Palenque to Flores: either the easy way with the tour companies OR the DIY alternative with a few independent transfers. From my understanding the whole trip duration should be approximately the same, about 9 hours (door to door). The main, critical difference is certainly the price (about one third with the second option) and the local backpacking experience you might get, which is completely worth I would say.

Sharing is caring!