How to get and stay at Cayos Cochinos, Honduras, on a budget

If you are looking for a local, authentic and inexpensive spot brushed by Caribbean, turquoise waters, then you might find it at Cayos Cochinos, Honduras. The good news is that these islands are easily and cheaply reachable without any tour or expensive boat. Forget therefore about the crowded, luxurious or commercial Utila and Roatan. In Cayos Cochinos you may go local and affordable, in direct touch with the indigenous Garifuna, most of them fishermen. I must warn you beforehand, though, that this experience is for independent adventurers and requires some ability to adapt to any circumstance.

In order to get there from La Ceiba, you just need to catch a direct bus (every 2 hours, 9.30 – 11.30, etc.) from the peripheral bus terminal located near the Puma gas station (as shown below). This yellow, urban bus is headed for Nueva Armenia little village placed about 40 Km away. The bus ticket is 50 HNL. Be careful to spot the sign on the top front of the bus. In addition, the bus slowly passes by the stop, but does not entirely halt there. Just flag it down. Alternatively, you can catch it at the central terminal, if that is more suitable for you.

After reaching Jutiapa crossroad, the bus intricately takes the untarmacked road (8 Km) straight to Nueva Armenia, a proper local hamlet dwelled by farmers and fishermen mostly. There, you can find a few shops, restaurants and humble lodgings (in family houses). Do not expect anything fancy : )

In my case I had a previous contact from a local lady (married to a boat captain) who had invited me to her house to spend the night (her name is Xiomara and everybody knows her in town, if you are interested). As a matter of fact, unless you arrive very early in the morning, you are almost obliged to wait for the following day (if you want to inexpensively share the boat with other people or catch a paid ride from an early-bird boatman).

I personally relished the simple, local life without tourists.  It brought me 50 years back. People are friendly and harmless, willing to speak to you, if you can utter some Spanish. The central bar and restaurant is just beside the football pitch (under a big palm roof). It is open from 1 pm to 11 pm, according to what I was informed.

Hence, after spending a very lovely day walking around to the beach (not so nice though) and across the unpaved streets, I received the sudden bad news that I could not spend the night where agreed. I had thereby to immediately find a quick lodging solution. Only private houses available. With the aid of my contact’s relative, I eventually ended up in a humble house (no shower) where I even got checked in for free (I donated 80 HNL as a courtesy though). The lady there was very laidback and helpful. The house is located right beside (on the right) the palm roof restaurant, near the football pitch. Just ask around in case or follow the map below (Nueva Armenia sign). Luckily I was provided with a portable fan for heat and abundant mosquitoes. Alternative options are paid and even worse.

The following day, another mishap: although I had been reassured that my contact would go and pick me up at the house at 6.30 am, she never showed up. I had thus to make for her house again to catch her up one hour later. She never apologized and considered all these faults quite normal in their world. Just don’t take it too personal then : )

Together with her family, she runs a frugal lodging in Chachahuate island, one of the tiny atolls composing the whole Cochinos archipelago. They were supposed to bring stuff there exactly that day and I got offered a lift (paid, 300 HNL, reduced from initial 500 HNL). I believe that you just need to head for  the main river port very early (6 am or so) and ask to local fishermen if they may carry you. Every day somebody apparently commutes to the island without precise schedule. Regular price would be from 250 to 300 HNL (about 10 – 11 Euros). But be very early not to miss any opportunity. The sea crossing is quite rough (approx. 1.30 h) without roof (sun is quite aggressive since 8 am), security devices (lifeguard jackets) and protection for the incoming water (boats are shallow and rudimentary). My piece of advice is buying a plastic bag from the opposite small shop to wrap your valuables. Smaller boats swing a bit more on the waves.

Since I was already in touch with a host, I did not search for anything else on the island. Seemingly, though, other lodgings are available for approximately the same night prices: 250 HNL (about 9 euros) for austere accommodation and the same amount for each fish dish (very fresh indeed!).

Other islands appear to be private or not easily accessible. Furthermore, you could be requested to pay an entrance fee depending on your nationality and how many days you are staying. Fishermen should instead have direct and unchecked access to Chachahuate island, inhabited by local boatmen and belonging to the Nueva Armenia community exclusively.

FARES ON THE ISLAND:

• Beer: 40 HNL
• Cigarettes: 5 HNL each
• Normal dish (eggs + cheese, beans, vegetables, etc): 150 HNL
• Fish dish: from 250 to 350 HNL
• Accommodation: 250 – 300 HNL (try to bargain!!)
• Snorkeling equipment: available (but forgot to ask the price 🙂
• Drinking (purified) water: free (at least it was for me) !!

If you then want to be toured to other islands (just for a day trip), then prices are completely variable according to distance and duration. I personally avoided it for budget reasons.

In itself, nevertheless, Chachahuate already offers crystalline, dreamy waters brushing white sand beaches. It is really the paradise on earth. The only downside is that the island shows itself tiny and could thus turn out to get somewhat boring after a while. Just bring some books to withstand hot hours (9 – 16). I personally spent there 48 hours, which I deemed enough.

As stated at the beginning, little comfort is provided:

• No shower at all (first day) or just basic one with water bins and a bucket (second day).
• Electricity available 2-3 hours at night and depending on power units.
• Food might turn out to be a bit repetitive after a few meals.
• Accommodation and toilet are very simple and narrow.
• Internet not available (intermittent phone data can be used instead).

That being said, the atmosphere over there is magic. In an entire weekend I only bumped into few local tourists coming over for lunch (from Ceiba or Roatan). The rest of the day was completely empty and only populated by local life. Amazing sunsets and sunrises were enchantingly looming at the horizon. Restful sea waves and beaming stars were rocking the calm, peaceful nights. Proper relax. At night, however, you had better socialize with your hosts and drink a few beers to cheer up : )

To return to the mainland, be sure to get up very early to grab a 5 or 6 am small boat back with a fisherman. They should leave almost every day with no notice. Sailing conditions are the same as described above. Better here to leave early to find more options and avoid the scorching sun after 9 am.

In summary, the trip is definitely worth and can be managed in an independent, economical way. I truly believe that this untouched part of paradise might be cherished for at least a couple of days, in close contact with authentic, turistically unspoilt dwellers.

Sharing is caring!