The ultimate guide on how to cross the Leimus border (Moskitia) from La Ceiba (Honduras) to Bilwi – Puerto Cabezas (Nicaragua)

From the very beginning since I entered Honduras I started to get fairly intrigued by an apparently mission impossible: crossing the most remote border of the country and probably of all Central America. As a matter of fact, this region (Moskitia) is only reachable by plane (landing in Puerto Lempira or Bilwi, quite expensive); by road from Nicaragua (through Bilwi, an infinite journey from Managua); or by a combination of buses (until Batalla) + boat + truck + boat from La Ceiba, Honduras. Although I was discouraged by the lack of information (first-hand and on the web), I immediately commenced to inquire every person I was encountering if she knew more about the topic or at least if she had a contact who could provide me with more insight. Feedbacks were slowly flowing in.

The turning point occurred in La Ceiba, where, thanks to my Couchsurfing host Julio, I got to know a kind nurse (Miriam) living in Puerto Lempira (Gracias a Dios, Moskitia). She revealed herself an invaluable source of data. My concerns at that time were manifold:

• Transportation links
• Security issues (narcos and criminals)
• Medical doubts (malaria, dengue, etc.)
• ATMs presence
• Legal aspects about the admission at the border

In particular, the last one was paramount: whether Leimus border was or not open to foreigners. It was certainly to Hondurans and Nicaraguans, but nobody knew for sure it was to foreign citizens as well. Although most of my interlocutors were underplaying the fact, I had an inkling something special was required here as a foreigner. And indeed my instinct was correct. As a matter of fact, beyond my expectations, Miriam promptly went to ask to the local (Puerto Lempira) police if my status was eligible for this border crossing. Nothing against on their side. However, on the Nicaragua side, a special authorization was requested from Managua. The trick here, nevertheless, was sending an exceptional email (to solicitudes@migob.gob.ni, instead of filling out the classic online form on https://solicitudes.migob.gob.ni/, where the Leimus port of entry option was not even given) describing the situation. But let’s go step by step.

TRANSPORTATION LINKS:

Not a real hindrance at all. From Ceiba, you need to catch a direct bus to Tocoa, from where all further connections start. Buses are very frequent all day long and may be caught from the main terminal or the peripheral one (near the Puma gas station). In my case, however, I took some stop-overs in Nueva Armenia (see my previous article) and Trujillo (see my Travel Log for more info and prices). As a consequence, there is no just one manner to approach Moskitia.

Either you catch a Ceiba – Tocoa bus and later a Tocoa – Iriona or Tocoa – Batalla (not sure whether the last one exists though) OR, from Trujillo, as I did, you take a bus to Bonito Oriental and change to an incoming bus to Iriona (stopping at Saint Joseph of the Punta, from where you have to hope to catch a truck or hitchhike to Batalla, 32 Km further). That bus stopped at 9 am at the main crossroad and cost 170 Lempira. It should pass every 2 hours as far as I understood. To recap:

Day 1: TRUJILLO (OR TOCOA) – BATALLA: Bus to Bonito Oriental; subsequently bus from Bonito Oriental at 9 am to Iriona; then change at Saint Joseph of the Punta; finally wait for a truck (hard after 1 pm) or hitchhike (as I did) to Batalla. From Tocoa, instead, you can go straight to Saint Joseph or even Batalla, if you are lucky. Sleep in Batalla or Pueblo Nuevo, better, for 200 HNL. I slept in Pueblo Nuevo (2 Km after Batalla) near the harbour (there are two humble options with very basic services and no Internet). That way you are ready to catch the boat quite easily the following day.

Day 2: BATALLA – PUERTO LEMPIRA: an ordeal to be honest : ) Firstly, you are not sure the boat is sailing until the very last minute. I got confirmation the speedboat was stopping by in Pueblo Nuevo at 10 am only 2 hours earlier. It depends on so many factors (passengers requests, weather, breakdowns, etc.). Technically almost every day there should be a boat. Practically you never know : ). Secondly, I was advised that the speedboat would approximately take 4 hours to complete the journey. Lies ! At least in my case, I arrived to Puerto Lempira only at night, 9 hours after depart !! : ) It stopped so many times along the way to collect and leave passengers and stuff. If you want to see the positive aspect, you can relish so many wonderful landscapes (Rio Platano and Rio Patuca outlets, jungle rivers, vivid lagoons, narrow channels, etc). But not always !! As again it depends on the passengers’ requests, various errands, weather conditions, captain’s decisions, etc.). Just be prepared to everything !

In my situation, thinking of a 4 hours trip, I did not bring any food and suffered a bit of hunger. Besides that, be ready to endure a roller-coaster (big hops) on the rough open sea waves; a scorching sun (no roof provided) above your head; constant gusts of wind and ocean droplets from time to time. Not for the faint of heart, I would say. In Lempira, if you are on a budget like me, you can spend a couple of nights in the modest Hotel Samaritano, just a few blocks away from the main pier and in the city centre. Basic rooms cost 350 HNL.  Just be careful to check your bed before confirming the room, as some beds have deadly springs : )

Day 3: PUERTO LEMPIRA RED TAPE: you won’t be able to immediately move further because first you are wrecked from the previous day; second, you need to print out all the necessary documents (as of March 2022, PCR test, authorization email from Managua and maybe passport).

In addition, from 8 am to 4 pm, you have to stamp out your passport at the Honduras migration office, shown in the map below and very close to Hotel Samaritano. In my case, my obliging contact Miriam helped me out with all this paperwork. You must stamp out the previous day as the truck going to the border is departing (6 am) before the migration office is open. Hotel Samaritano will help you to book the truck at 6 am for the following day (price is 300 HNL per person). Trucks normally stop at each hotel. Otherwise, here you have the contact details of my provider, Eric Wanda, Transportes El Puente:

+50487826207

+50497431209

+50488845959

Day 4: PUERTO LEMPIRA – LEIMUS – WASPAM: the truck is very on time. Be ready. It then takes around 3 hours and a half to reach the border across an acceptable red soil road flanked by agreeable pines (I was quite amazed at that) all along the way. I had a very pleasurable conversation with the driver during the way. If you can, ask to be sitting inside the van, as it can heavy rain out of the blue in a matter of minutes there. Along the path, you will just need to exhibit your passport to two military checkpoints. Not a big deal.

Once arrived at the end of the road (tiny Leimus Honduras and second checkpoint), you can have a quick coffee and change your remaining Lempiras into Nicaraguan Cordobas. Be advised to exchange your money on the Honduras side (at the small shop), because otherwise you risk not being able to do it after the crossing. Conversion rate at the border is not so good though. You had thus better to measure your leftovers : ) That being said, I would recommend to leave Puerto Lempira with at least 2000 HNL ( I had 3000), because you never know and the following ATM is in Bilwi (Puerto Cabezas).

The oblong motor pirogue is already alerted and won’t delay you long. The river crossing (Rio Coco, the actual border between Honduras and Nicaragua) is a matter of few minutes and costs 30 Cordobas. The moment you disembark on the opposite shore, you are technically in Nicaragua. Better not to take pictures or videos from this moment on. Nicaraguans are definitely more sensitive about that.

It goes without saying that from the very start in Trujillo, I was the only foreigner in all situations. The same applied at the border, where local people got let in very quickly. Me, on the contrary, I was retained for about two hours, even though my documents were all in perfect order (I had printed out two copies of everything, just in case : ). Since officers were not used to see foreign citizens there, they simply did not know how to behave. The captain confessed me that I was the first foreigner to present himself there in the previous 4 months of his duty at Leimus, except two more people rejected (wrong Covid test) the earlier months.

In short, they had to transmit all my data (they also asked me many questions about my status) to Bilwi police station via Whatsapp, which in its turn was in touch with the capital Managua. As if that were not enough, their Internet mobile connection was very weak. As a matter of fact, they have no PCs nor authority to make any decision in terms of migration. All is reported to other offices and must be confirmed back: a messianic wait. At the end of this lengthy back and forth, I was eventually granted access to the country, without any entry fee. The stamp was “ink-free” for the past X months : ) I really appeared from nowhere according to them.

Since I lost my earlier companions (they could not wait that long), I had to settle for a shared taxi which in the end was the perfect choice: only 100 Cordobas to be left right in front of my lodging in Waspam (22 Km away of dirty road). In Waspam, you have to spend the night (I can recommend you the affordable Las Cabañas, 300 Cordobas) before being able to catch the direct bus to Bilwi (Puerto Cabezas) the following day (6 am or 12 am). The town has not much to offer indeed, but you may rest a bit, buy a phone sim card and lounge at the Discoteca Koofu Zohu (cheap beers for 38 Cordobas). At the lodging, you may book a shared taxi for the following day (5.45 am) to head for the bus terminal, 30 Cordobas.

Day 5: WASPAM – BILWI (PUERTO CABEZAS): the bus terminal is about 3 Km from the city center. The decrepit bus should leave at 6 am, but indeed it left at 6.40 am. So take it easy with the early wake up : ) You do not need to book anything in advance nor buy a ticket. You are asked the payment (300 Cordobas) directly in the bus. The bumpy, red soil (all the same from Puerto Lempira) road takes around 5 hours and is scattered with tiny hamlets made of wooden shacks. A break is made after a couple of hours (20 minutes) for coffee and cake. Unfortunately, once in Bilwi, you are dropped by the bus quite far away from the city center. A shared taxi costs 40 Cordobas. Again, if you need a shoestring suggestion, I picked the cheap (400 Cordobas per night) Diwas Hotel, from where I am writing this article right now. A next-door restaurant (same ownership) also offers affiliated deals for 150 Cordobas / meal. Follow-on direct buses to Managua (10 hours) should leave three times a day (10 am, 1 pm and 4 pm) from the city center. Price is 600 C and you can call Transporte Aragon on +50588546961 for previous reservations.

SECURITY ISSUES:

Nothing special to report. Although people are a bit shy and distrustful, they appeared harmless in the end. They are just not used to foreigners and Spanish language too : ) (they speak the local Miskito language on both sides). I was just warned not to wander about in Puerto Lempira after dusk, if possible. The rest is reported quite safe. Just mind your business, as to speak : )

MEDICAL DOUBTS:

In Trujillo, to be on the safe side, I bought a long-sleeves shirt and a repellent for mosquitoes. Malaria and Dengue fever are technically present. Unless you enter very deep into the inland through the several long rivers, you should not incur any danger. At any rate, use precaution, of course.

ATMS PRESENCE:

You may withdraw in almost any big town (Ceiba, Tocoa, Trujillo, Puerto Lempira, Bilwi). In small villages, needless to say, no cash machines available. For your information, I withdrew in Trujillo and no more until Bilwi. If you are just paying for food, transportation and accommodation, you should make it quite easily.

LEGAL ASPECTS ABOUT THE ADMISSION AT THE BORDER:

As earlier anticipated, you need a special authorization from Managua (at least 7 days before the expected entry date, which can later be flexible). Since the Leimus option is not available online, you must go the old fashion. Send an email to solicitudes@migob.gob.ni, and wait 24 hours for the quick reply. They will send you a pdf file to fill out and be returned together with your passport photo. Print the pdf file, fill it out, sign it and attach it as a simple picture (no scan needed). In a span of 24 more hours you should get your authorization (just in writing, no attachments) to be printed out and shown to any requiring officer. The final step is sending your PCR test copy to the same email address at least 36 hours before crossing the border (PCR not older than 72 hours on the expected entry date). You will receive the final, conclusive approval via email again. That’s it.

Just to conclude, I would strongly recommend this experience because it is safe, possible and especially adrenaline-filled. Despite a bit of suffering and discomfort, the adventure is totally worth because you will be faced with untouched local realities not accustomed to tourism or Western people. The expedition is thoroughly authentic and without filters. You are completely on your own but with a proper indigenous life just in front of your incredulous eyes. This is one of the last true experiences left in all Central America. And if you wish to go even further, just hire a boat and sail through the original Rio Platano, Rio Patuca or Rio Coco, the next level experience : )

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