There is one little island opposite Kupang (West Timor, Indonesia) which is at the same time very wild and unexplored; but also quite easily reachable from Tenau Port in Kupang. Although I have personally never been to the more notorious neighbouring Roti (apparently fairly commercial to my understanding), I feel saying that this small island named Semau is the place to be for adventurous travellers looking for untrodden venues. And here are the reasons:
1) No accommodation is available on any online portal (as of June 2024).
2) Roads are mostly unpaved and rough.
3) No restaurants nor warung available, just home cooking.
4) Only one resort (Otan Resort, with beer and basic kitchen) , no hostels.
6) No Western tourists, expats nor English speakers detected, apart from kind Dupsenopyl (Donnie) whom you may contact for any info and support at Whatsapp number +62 812-4680-0603 (he asked me to share his number to any other intrepid traveller venturing into the island : ). He went to PNG for a few years and can connect you to any of the few homestays there.
7) Local people are so charming, authentic and unspoilt by tourists. They will welcome you like a king. They will moreover jollily waive, greet and smile at you while laboriously driving your scooter across primitive and shingled villages.
In order to get there, I would advise to first rent a good scooter (150 CC or higher) in Kupang city center. You may contact Bagus at +62 823-4106-6748 (only Bahasa or English texts tentatively) to arrange a pick up / delivery near Pantai Laut (main downtown square). Price per day should be 100,000 IDR, with option of half-days extensions to 50,000 IDR. Helmet provided.
Secondly, you should drive your scooter to Tenau Port (not Bolok, which is much further), any time. Not sure about the big ferries schedule though. Maybe once or twice a day. Price is 27,000 IDR for the slow big ferry. 50,000 IDR for the small boats leaving when 5 or 6 passengers drop by. They can amazingly load up your scooter too. Watch out since they will try to charge you 100,000 IDR for a charter trip. You need to wait some time for other persons to share costs (which nonetheless are not logic in the way they do it, as they do not leave after they have reached 2 passengers : ).
The total boat journey is approximately 15-20 minutes. Very speedy.
The disembarking port is located in Hansisi. From there you can drive to Otan (about 15 km away, last 4 on a dirt road) in around 30 minutes. When I arrived in the hamlet alone by scooter, people gazed at me as an alien I must say : ).
Finally, after many language barriers, I could get hold of Donnie somehow and be escorted to one of the three humble homestays operating there, Dephipo Homestay. As almost everywhere in Timor, no Wi-fi, no hot shower, no air-con. Just basic cold water bucket services. More than what you need here.
I intercepted the kind (no English spoken) owner (they are a couple actually) at a community gathering. They were so happy and nervous to have a guest there : ) Price was agreed at 200,000 IDR / night (about 12 EUR) for accommodation plus 3 fish meals per day. A true deal.
I have to add that fish was fresh and caught in the same day or max the day before. Portions were lavish and not restrained, with drinks included. The last day, my hosts and Donnie were so joyful that they even offered a full bottle of local Arak to celebrate. We got almost drunk : )
SIGHTS IN SEMAU
You can randomly drive your scooter anywhere in this small (30 KM N-S) island. 2 or 3 days could be enough. I would recommend you to go for a Sunset beer to Otan Resort nearby (they had promotion 3 for 2 last time : ) on the splendid Otan Beach, a quick 1 kilometer drive from the homestay.
The following day you can drive to Liman Beach, hill and viewpoint. Later continuing on to Akle, Uitiuh Ana, Onansila, Bokonusan and back to Otan. You will see pristine, untouched villages with local fishermen collecting fish and especially seaweeds. Beaches are solitary and totally deserted. However, roads are almost “undrivable” in certain stretches, due to loosen pebbles everywhere. Be careful.
Furthermore, no restaurants are found on the road. Bring your snacks and drinks or stop at a random shop and politely ask them to cook yourself some instant noodles : )
The big return boat should be then every day at 8 am from Hansisi. However, please double-check as departure hours and days might change with time.
Semau is really a fascinating, out-of-the-beaten track island for relax, discovery and direct contact with genuine local people. A must-go if you are in Kupang.
Interesting article on Semau. We first visited Semau it must be 30 to 40 years ago. The description on this site is very, very similar to how it was then. However, I
consider that a couple of major attractions have been omitted. First, it is a great place for hiking. We did not have a motor bike and really, don’t consider one is necessary for Semau. However, I guess it depends on your purpose. Walking is wonderful on Semau. Though be warned to cover up and wear long pants. A lot of walking is on beaches and the heat radiating off the sand will, from our experience result in very severe sunburn to the back of the legs.
The article does not mention the lighthouse on Semau. Built by the Dutch this is quite a feature of the Island and we walked to it from what I think was the main beach.
At the time we were there there were ‘roughish’ but very adequate cabins on the beach. Each of these cabins were equipped with bathrooms with showers. Have no idea whether they are still there but it sounds like they are not. This site is so correct in mentioning the fresh fish meals and yes! three times a day. They were and still are memorable.
The other major feature not mentioned is the scuba diving. Diving in the waters off Semau is wonderful. Huge plate corals and steep coral cliffs. And really sone of the best sites to be seen can be seen in the first 3-4 metres. The coral formations around Semau are notable.
Thank you Jane for your inputs, much appreciated!