East Timor is certainly not a main tourist spot. A few international expats are living in the capital Dili, but not so eye-catching. Again this a small country for pure adventure and no mainstream massive visitors. What might instead put budget-sensitive travellers off is the relatively high cost of living compared to Indonesia, caused above all by the US dollar adopted as a main currency here. Affordable (rooms between 15-20 USD / night) or free (Couchsurfing) options are nevertheless available. Portuguese (among older generations) and English (among younger generations) are widely spoken though.
But let’s go into detail regarding my personal experience in East Timor.
DAY 1 – FROM SOE (WEST TIMOR) TO DILI (EAST TIMOR)
Besides with expensive and scanty flights (direct only from Singapore, Bali and Australia), Dili may be reached in two main ways: 13 hours ferry from Oecusse (info here); or a simpler bus (still around 12 hours) from Kupang, West Timor. This bus might pick people up along the way in Soe, Kefamenanu and Atambua, before crossing the border (lengthy 2 hours for immigration formalities).
Fares in June 2024 were 350,000 IDR (about 20 EUR). There are a few companies you may look up for: Babadok Express; Bagong; Timor Travel and Paradise Travel. Most of them arrive far from the city center at Timor Plaza. Prices range from 20 to 30 EUR. Timor Travel is cheaper than others.
A very paramount information is that all EU passport holders (except Ireland) have 90 days Visa-free policy in East Timor, and DO NOT need any pre-authorization as stated in the official government page here.
This page is regrettably not accurate, as not only Indonesian and Portuguese citizens can waive the so called “Visa Application Authorization”, but EU passports too. Not sure about others, sorry for that.
I guess however that all other nationalities have to go through either Visa on Arrival at Dili airport or pre-authorization (online or at the Timor consulate in Kupang) for land crossings:
A Turkish friend of mine was indeed rejected at the land border because of no pre-authorization.
And for EU citizens there is no fee to pay:
“All visitors who need a visa to enter East Timor must apply in advance for a Visa Application Authorization if they wish to enter East Timor through a land border post. If other conditions are met, a single or multiple entry visa valid for up to 90 days is granted for a fee of US$30. Visitors which are exempt from a visa (such as citizens from a Schengen country) do not need a visa (and hence no Visa Application Authorization) at any land border crossing.”
Accommodation in Dili might be tricky too. Myself was a bit juggling between Couchsurfing and a good price / quality lodge called Gama Apartments (20 USD / night for full apartment). I know you may find 10 USD dorm beds or 15 USD basic rooms in some hostels. In my recent case, hostels are now the last resort : ) I want to always go as much local as possible.
Be also aware that in East Timor there are no Grab / Uber / Maxim / Gojek either. Taxis are quite pricy, especially at night. Rides might vary between 5 and 15 USD in the city. You can use the public minivans (Microlet, routes here) or rent a scooter for 15 USD / day (best local price I could find, much higher than Indonesia though, contact here).
DAY 2 – EXPLORING THE CRISTO REI STATUE AND THE TIMORESE RESISTANCE ARCHIVE & MUSEUM
Stunning views can be experienced from the crumbling (under maintenance now) Cristo Rei, reachable by Microlet n. 12 for a 0.25 cents fare. Another cheap but enriching activity is visiting O Arquivo & Museu da Resistência Timorense (AMRT). Adults fares are 1 USD. It is an interesting dive in the last 100 years of history of the country, until full and suffered independence gained in 2002.
DAY 3 – EXPLORING TAIS MARKET FOR CHEAP SOUVENIRS AND NEIGHBOURING BEACHES LIKE LIQUIÇÁ
After renting my scooter (with immediate flat tyre issue), I had quite freedom to roam around and visit more specific places.
DAY 4 – TO ATAURO ISLAND
This island can be compared to Semau (please see my post about that here). It is local, have lush hills, secluded villages, solitary beaches and crystal-clear waters fit for snorkelling or diving too. Some info about ferries below.
Thursdays: Laju Laju ferry, leaves Dili at 7.30 am to Atauro Island and returns the same day at 3 pm back to Dili. Costs 5USD, one way
Saturdays: Nakroma Ferry, leaves Dili at 7.30am to Atauro Island and returns to Dili the same day at 3pm. Costs 5USD, one way
Everyday: Speed boat, leaves Dili at 7.30 am to Atauro Island and returns to Dili either in the morning at 10am or in the afternoon at 3pm. The availability is weather dependent and it costs 45 USD per person, one way.
There are also local fisherboats leaving from Dili to Atauro every morning. they cost between 5-10 USD per person, one way.
Please remember that if you wish to carry over your scooter, which is only recommended for 150 CC or higher, then you need to pay an extra charge of 10 USD for Saturday’s Nakroma Ferry. For the terrible roads I have seen there, a 125 CC scooter is not enough.
The minimum you can stay in Atauro is 3 days I would say, as Nakroma Ferry departs then 3 pm on Tuesday.
Very importantly, bring a lot of cash as cards are not accepted plus no ATMs in the island.
The boat disembarks in Beloi, where several affordable homestays are available. Personally, I spent three nights at a guest house called Manukoko Rek in Vila Maumeta, 3 Km away, where they can decently prepare Italian food as a change to boring rice (book your meal a couple of hours in advance though). A frugal private hut costs 15 USD / night.
Other more remote lodging options could be “Dekali Resort”, Turismo Comunitario in Makili (the road is rough though); or Mario’s place in hard-to-get-there Adara Village (you may arrive there only by boat or on foot).
In the afternoon I actually visited the local village of Makili, 6 arduous kilometres on dirt roads from Vila Maumeta. There is a also a kind restaurant for lunch or dinner if you need (Dekali Resort above).
DAY 5 – EXPLORE THE ISLAND BY SCOOTER
Roads are very uneasy, bumpy and rough. Be careful. You can slowly drive as far as Arlo, park your scooter in this out-of-the-world tiny hamlet and follow the trail to Adara Village, 8 Km round trip. Atekru village is even further. In Adara you might relish a really peaceful life. There is one restaurant and homestay called Mario’s place. If you are not satisfied yet, you can reach back Arlo and start to laboriously driving uphill to Ele Timuk and Anartuto, remote villages where you will be seen as an Alien almost. No supplies there remember. They are generally the starting bases to hike the highest hill here, Manukoko, almost 1,000 mt high. You may easily do it by yourself, but better to exclusively focus on that and approach it in the early morning, as temperatures in the afternoon may become unbearable. I just spent some time in the villages taking pics myself : )
DAY 6 – EXPLORE THE NORTH OF ATAURO ISLAND
Beautiful sceneries may be cherished even in the Northern part of the island, ending in the village of Akrema. Roads are easier than the central ridge but still unpaved and insidious. There should be some hot springs in Uaroana (but muddy and too hot : ) and a hidden trail after the beach in Akrema (where you have to park your scooter). There was even a rope to climb a difficult rocky side, which I was not sure how could be trusted : )
DAY 7 – VISIT BONECAS DE ATAURO AND CATCH THE FERRY BACK TO DILI
If you want to help local women and families, you may visit the dolls and handcrafts small factory in Vila Maumeta. A bunch of strong-willed women are running the association to sell original handmade products like bags, dolls, decoration objects, earrings, bracelets, souvenirs, etc. Bring enough cash for that too, if interested. At 2 pm you must be in Beloi harbour for purchasing your passenger + motorbike ticket. Boat leaves between 2 and 3 pm. It takes about 3 hours, very slow.
DAY 8 – DRIVE FROM DILI HATU BUILICO
It is a long but pleasant 70 km drive across very authentic villages spread along the mountains. You will go way back in time. There are a few homestays in the hamlet, but the best option is the one near the village school.
You can negotiate as low as 15 USD / night with food included. Bring warm clothes as you are at 2,000 mt high a.s.l. Rooms are basic but comfortable. No Wi-fi.
DAY 9 – ASCEND THE RAMELAU PEAK, 2,986 MT A.S.L. AND DRIVE BACK TO DILI
Ramelau is the highest peak in all Timor Leste. It is quite an easy, night walk you may wish to undertake alone. Nobody is forcing you to hire a guide and if you have trekking experience, no need either. You can drive your scooter for about 3 Km uphill above Hatu Builico village until the concrete road ends at a chapel. From there, along marked trails, it might take approx. 1.30 or 2 h to reach the summit, 3.5 Km away. Good GPS and headlamp are essential here, in order to arrive at the summit for sunrise. You might wish to start your hike at around 4.30 am. At around 6 am on the top, it is quite chilly (but rewarding : ).
DAY 10 – BUS FROM DILI TO KUPANG
You might wish to check Timor Travel agency, the cheapest at 23 USD. Tickets can be purchased the day before or even on the same day. Departure time at about 8 am. Their ticket office and bus stand in Dili lie here:
If you have more time, feel free to check out Baucau and drive eastward up to the very extreme tip of the island, where Ilha de Jago (Jago Island) is located. I cannot tell myself, but some travellers have enjoyed it. The only issue is you have to drive your scooter for long time and might become expensive to pay moto rental, accommodation, petrol (double price than Indonesia here, approx. 1.20 USD per liter) and food for many days. Very personal decision. Crocodiles might be spotted around Ira Lalaro Lake or Hotel Roberto Carlos. Be watchful then : )
That being said, Timor is indeed an alternative destination offering all sorts of options to enjoy an out-of-the-beaten track area, far away from copy-paste and banal places.
