The ultimate local experience at Tawi-Tawi, Philippines

Tawi-Tawi is probably the most remote and peculiar archipelago in all Philippines. It is closer to Malaysia and Borneo than to Manila. They speak local languages like Tausug and Sama which have nothing or little to do with mainstream Tagalog (widely spoken too). They are  Muslim. They were previously part of the province of Sulu, historically always free of Western and Spanish intervention (this is why they are still a world apart from mainland Filipino culture). On September 11, 1973, the new province of Tawi-Tawi was officially created, separate from Sulu, with the seat of the provincial government established in Bongao. Finally Tawi-Tawi was incorporated into an autonomous regional government for Western Mindanao in 1979 following agreements with the Moro secessionist movement. In 1989, the province voted overwhelmingly to become part of an Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao, strained by even further ambitions of independence propelled by the Moro Party until the 90s pacts with Manila and later on by radical, ruthless terrorist groups like Abu Sayyaf.

Its dwellers are mostly Sama Badjaus, peaceful “Sea Gypsies” living in humble stilt houses or run-down huts, and dealing with fishing activities, small trades and seaweed gathering. This is likely one of the poorest and marginalized areas in the Philippines too. So do not show off any wanton luxury or picky behaviour.

As you can easily understand, there is no Palawan or Semporna vibe here 🙂 Yet, they astonishingly have white sand beaches and turquoise, crystalline waters; lonely paradisiacal atolls and fresh delicious seafood; lush tropical forests and pristine untouched villages. But above all, they have this genuine authenticity which mass tourism irretrievably spoils and never restores. In addition, for the same very reason, you will encounter the kindest and most warm-hearted people on earth, prone to unquestionably share with you the few things they own or eat.

Furthermore, you are treated as a King and people are queuing up to take selfies and pictures with you. In most of the villages they seldom or never spotted a white Western traveller. You will be thus watched and considered as a VIP, even by police and army, ready to offer transportation and armed protection in certain areas (security situation is now under control and there is no major kidnapping or terrorist threat or alert any longer).

But let’s go into thorough detail regarding the practicalities here.

GETTING THERE

That is no sport. It took me days of planning to really understand how to arrive in Tawi-Tawi. Coming from Borneo, I was not aware yet of anything about that unknown and unexplored place. After much persistent inquiry, I got with difficulty to know that:

• Tawi tawi can be reached either by plane (2 or 3 times a week, quite expensive) from Zamboanga OR by boat from Zamboanga (20 hours) OR from Malaysia.
• Previous LEGAL boats leaving from handier and closer Semporna, Lahad Datu or Sandakan have been all cancelled or put in the deep freeze (maybe resuming in the future, who knows).
• Some boats might be still running but the issue is with official migration stamps in and out from and to Malaysia.
• The only fully operational boat leaves from distant Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia.
• The Tawau ferry only leaves once a week, for a whopping fare of 350 Ringgit (about 70 EUR, only cash accepted), just one way.
• Tawau port charges you extra 1.60 MYR per each Kilo after 10 Kg. The same does Bongao port after 15 Kg (not applied to me though).
• Little or no information is known about this ferry by local people. You must go to Tawau harbour a couple of times and try to understand everything with zero English spoken there.
• There is even no point to book your ticket or pay in advance. You are just required to present yourself on Monday 7 am at the Ming Hai office.
• They will also bother you by saying they need to double-check your passport, as no clue about Visas (EU passport holders have 30 days visa-free in Philippines), Internet (they do not know how to verify online that info) or migration processes. They resignedly have to wait for the Philippines migration officers to reply them back, but their answer never arrives : ) That is partially excused as they really see almost no tourists catching those problematic ferries.
• So this ghostly boat leaves delayed (2 hours minimum) every Monday  10 – 11 am (if no last-minute problems arise) from Tawau and returns every Tuesday from Bongao (eventually at 6 pm).

• The boat takes approximately 12 – 13 hours and is quite uncomfortable.
• There is a small bar in the boat for quick snacks, water, coffee and light meals.
• Migration in Philippines is open 24/7 but migration in Malaysia only 8 am to 6 pm.
• Once you have made landfall in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, you are escorted by police outside the boat and you have to face a prolix 2 hours immigration process with idle times and many questions asked. Again, they are not used to see Western foreigners here.
• Be prepared to show them your purpose and exactly where you will be staying at, how many days, departure date and ticket (return ticket purchased in Tawau), etc.

Luckily i met a very nice and lovely girl named Nora onboard who assisted me during  those steps above, guaranteeing for me with police and even offering unexpected hospitality at her family’s place. Without that help, I would have been questioned definitely much more.

Situation there looked immediately quite tense and intense. Boat and police are lingering. Locals are all surrounding you like somebody coming from the outer space. Tricycle drivers are pushing for business.

Eventually at about 1 am (after 2 hours from arrival), we managed to escape from the port.

Security concerns seem quite preeminent here: police questioning, curfew hours (after 23 h at night) and escorting requirements told me that.

In addition, please be aware that the 3 ATMs in Bongao (not anywhere else) are working from time to time. Bring enough cash, even in other currencies (moneychangers regularly exchange US Dollars and Malaysian Ringgits). I had issues myself for a few days.

ACCOMMODATION

You have quite a number of options in Bongao. For budget-sensitive backpackers, however, some of them might end up being a bit costly. Outside Bongao, instead, you probably have nothing available. Couchsurfing neither. In my case I was so lucky that I got invited, accepted and moved from family to family during my 8 days stay in the archipelago. To all intents and purposes, anyway, I am sharing this list of hotels sent to me by Bongao Tourism Board:

1. Bihing Tahik Resort – 09533225742

2. Almari Beach Resort – 09455803171

3. DanMar Resort 09554123145

4. Ryan’s Inn po, nasa town lang din: 09276756400

5. Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant – 09977029571 / 09277476649

6. Beachside Inn & Restaurant – 09262600918

7. Kuya’s Inn, nasa malapit sa pantalan po: 09979431024

8. Arron Pension House: 09991635053

9. Mayan Hotel – 09276793590 / 09772880604

10. MSU-TCTO Dormitel 09271765803

11. LAYAG Tours Bed & Breakfast +63 966 852 0717

Be mindful that the only way to book them is maybe by calling them or sending a text on Messenger. They do NOT reply to Whatsapps or Instagram (actually Facebook and Messenger are much more popular than Instagram and Whatsapp in Tawi-Tawi).

You may consider MSU Dormitel (Tawi-Tawi University hostel) or LAYAG BNB as cheaper alternatives.

Furthermore, there are additional inexpensive (low quality) lodgings starting from 500 Pesos / night close to the port.

If you politely ask around, you could Inshallah be prompted with the absolutely local chance to sleep at a Mosque, Police Station, Army Barracks or in some floating (stilt) house.

You may always liaise with Bongao Tourism Office via their Facebook page for further info and help. They are fairly fast in replying.

MOVING AROUND

You have unpredictable, sluggish boats to hop from one island to another (to Sapa-Sapa for example every day around 9-10 am from Bongao port; to Simunul, instead, every day at about 2-3 pm from Chinese Pier). To move around the main island (huge, more than 60 Kms tip to tip) I would recommend you to find somebody renting you out a scooter. Just gently inquire people near the harbour maybe. I was extremely fortunate myself, because families gave two wheels for free to me (had to pay for fixings and petrol at least, obvious). As far as I was concerned, roads were pretty fine and well taken care of. Perhaps in rainy season and towards remote villages, some bumpy, dirt stretches can be found from time to time.

I know there are also some public, overloaded buses heading from Bongao to Languyan. Not sure about departure points and schedule though. You could probably and easily try to hitchhike as well. The moment they see an exotic foreign traveller, I have no doubt you will be immediately picked up.

Alternatively, you may wish to charter some small fishermen’s boat for a bargained price. Please remember, however, that gasoline is expensive here (approx. 1 EUR per liter) and, as a consequence, your trip won’t be that cheap.

SECURITY

Although some people, Tourism office and police will tell you otherwise, situation seems now very good. Needless to say you have always to be vigilant and careful but after COVID general safety conditions improved a lot. Kidnapping and assault risk is quite low at present.

Curfew was apparently kept to avoid drunkards, road accidents and petty crime troubles:

Notwithstanding, the overall feeling when walking on the streets at any time of the day is peaceful and relaxed. Only in Bongao you might wish to use extra attention with Gipsy beggars. Although not aggressive, they could potentially walk away with your belongings perhaps.

Apart from that, some other interesting facts to know:

• Police technically requires you to check in, register and accept body guards (army or police) at any town checkpost.
• In Sapa-Sapa and Tundobas police is also providing free transportation (gasoline contributions are welcome) to move there.
• Some remote areas on the East side (after Languyan) are still not so recommended, as well as Sulu and Siasi islands (some people say they are safe now).
• Local people will be nevertheless very protective with you, accompanying you on the way as much as possible.
• Large majority of people here is conservative Muslim. Behave accordingly.

HOUSING CONDITIONS AND WIFI

In most houses hygiene and facilities are at an all-time low : ) Sewers are absent (all cast into sea). Water is distributed in expensive tanks or dredged up from rainfall water pits. Garbage is thrown wherever it happens (regrettably to the sea in many cases). Rats and other rodents are pretty common. Malaria and other diseases are indeed possible a bit everywhere. Toilets and infrastructure are very basic as you can understand.

Upon accepting these general conditions, warm hospitality and boundless generosity is displayed everywhere. You will be always granted utmost cordiality, support and attention. I was so knowingly blessed that I could often eat for free “the catch of the day” with local families.

Internet is another relevant issue here. Pay-as-you-go Elon Musk’s Starlink feeble connections are the main gateway for local dwellers. Although pretty inexpensive, Starlink only provides you with limited connection (just a few hours) to specific roads or neighborhoods. If you change place, you lose the signal. Moreover, the payment method is quite funny, either by coins into makeshift machines or by voucher in designated shops.

MAIN SIGHTS

I guess that the main sights in Tawi-Tawi are local life at the villages. Watching and vividly thanking amazed people happily waiving, smiling, nodding and greeting at you. Taking pics with flattered and amused community members. Seeing all the simple (but extremely important to them) community activities filling up the inhabitants’ day. Relishing boat journeys to any destination. Driving your scooter purposelessly around through out-of-civilization hamlets. Enjoying the fresh, local food (rice and fish).

If you have the chance to bring some snorkelling mask or diving equipment, you can add up turquoise sea exploration and discovery. Or you may just heavenly swim in crystal-clear waters.

Furthermore, you can have a look at the following places (with time and transportation available):

• Bud Bongao (an easy walk across a tropical forest up to an enjoyable viewpoint over Bongao town)
• Lakit Lakit village
• Mandulan village
• Balimbing Proper village
• Tandubas Island
• Sapa-Sapa two islands
• Simunul island
• Sanga-Sanga airport area (continue by scooter to gipsy Tubig Basag until the end of the road in Mandulan).
• Panampangan Beach
• Manok Mangkaw Island

Just to quote some possibilities. But you have many more. If you follow the same route like me, you arrive in Bongao on a Monday night; and then have until Tuesday afternoon of the following week to explore the archipelago. Enough time. Alternatively, you may catch another infinite boat to Zamboanga.

Anyways, Tawi-Tawi has been one of the most veritably original and virgin lands I have been so far, completely outside any International tourist circuit. You should hurry up to visit it before it becomes another commercial Semporna or Mabul island. Local islanders are so friendly and helpful that you do not have to worry so much about transportation or accommodation. Security has also improved enormously. This is why this area really represents a hidden gem to uncover.

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