Among other activities you may perform around Manali (India), there is a handy (but demanding) trekking to the tiny Bhrigu Lake. To complete the full circuit back to Manali (approx. 50 Km) you need between 2 (tight) or 3 (loose) days. We did in 2.
In case you are not equipped with camping and sleeping gear, you will then need to hire the cheap tools in one of the specialized shops around Manali or Old Manali. We personally rented :
– Tents (250 INR each / day)
– Sleeping bags (50 INR each / day) + Mattresses (free)
– Cooking gear (50 INR / day)
In addition, we had to buy (not rentable) a small gas tank (900 INR) to prepare the food.
The food is then up to you.
So far the basic, universal camping stuff.
If you then have some trekking experience and a GPS app (we used MAPS.ME), you certainly do not need any (expensive) guide or tour.
As far as the itinerary is concerned, we divided the distance in the following parts:
1) MANALI – GULABA (POLICE CHECK POINT) – 21 KM – SHARED TAXI (DAY 1)
Although from the downtown bus station it might be possible to catch a local bus, we could not see any useful northern destination after 1 hour wait. We therefore resolved to negotiate a cab for 1000 INR. Unfortunately, many taxis in Manali have no legal permit to pass the Gulaba police check post. They will thus drop you there.
2) GULABA (POLICE CHECK POINT) – GULABA (TRAIL STARTING POINT) – 4 KM – WALKING (DAY 1)
From the checkpoint it is about 4 Km uphill to reach the trail starting point. However, you may easily take some off-road shortcuts to make them shorter. No passport or permit is asked at the check post. Only few general questions. Just pretend you know where you are going. The beginning of the trail is quite visible from the road. Ask around too. If you have a GPS app like MAPS.ME, you will see it better.
3) GULABA (TRAIL STARTING POINT) – FIRST BASE CAMP – 5 KM – WALKING (DAY 1)
The grassy ascent (about 800 meters in altitude) to the first base camp is pretty steep. It is however fairly well marked. The base camp is at an approximate altitude of 3800 meters a.s.l. You may camp everywhere free of charge. There is also a small shack where you may buy basic supplies (eggs, noodles, biscuits, etc.) and expensive bottles of water (50 INR each). If you are accustomed to Indian water or you have purifier devices or tablets, then you may use natural sources, spread everywhere here. As for the night temperature, it can be very cold even in summer. Be prepared.
4) FIRST BASE CAMP – BHRIGU LAKE – WALKING (DAY 2)
From the base camp you will have to take a partially marked path to reach the lake. The way is all abruptly up again. After a couple of kilometres, the trail is not that clear anymore. We regularly used our GPS to overcome our doubts. The final stretch is made of relevant stones requiring some harder trekking. The lake is more an achievement than a stunning target in itself : ) Altitude is about 4100 meters a.s.l.
5) BHRIGU LAKE – VASHISHT – WALKING (DAY 2)
Although we are still unsure if we took the right pattern, we nonetheless managed with extreme difficulty to descend the steep slopes from the lake. They are indeed very abrupt and slippery. We fell a few times actually. It is vital to be very focused here. Again, the track is not marked for a while until you hit back the main trail heading for Vashisht, which keeps its exhaustingly steep, downhill inclination until the very end. The final part seems indeed endless, twisted in a repeated series of zigzags across the thick vegetation.
6) VASHISHT – MANALI – 5 KM – WALKING (DAY 2)
Although this is the easiest part, it might still turn out to be quite tiresome after so much distance previously covered. Taxis and tuk tuks are available here, if necessary.
To sum up, the experience was really pleasant and adventurous. In case you decide to skip the tour agency or guide, be mindful you need camping gear, a reliable GPS, physical preparation and some luck not to fall : ))
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