How to hike the Acatenango Volcano, Guatemala, by yourself

Probably you have already heard or read many stories about the must-do Acatenango Volcano overnight trek to gaze at the gorgeous nocturne eruption of the opposite Volcan del Fuego.

Since I entered Guatemala, almost everybody kept repeating that this activity could not be done alone and compulsorily required a tour and a guide.

This is why, out of curiosity, I decided to deeper investigate if it was really the case. After receiving  a couple of cues from other intrepid travellers, I started to become more and more convinced that the independent expedition was indeed possible. This research obstinately aimed at manifold results:

• Prove the possibility of the self-guided trek
• Save some money
• Be freer and more adventurous during the activity

As a matter of fact, then, the operation was only partially successful. But let’s go in detail.

A tour package normally starts at 9 am (every day) from Antigua and costs between 400 and 250 GTQ (plus 50 GTQ for the entrance ticket). You are provided logistics, meals, camping equipment and guides. Basically you have nothing to worry about except walking to the top.

The DIY version, instead, requires you to take care of everything, such as:

• Food supplies
• Camping equipment (tent, sleeping bag, etc.)
• Transportation
• Clothing
• GPS orientation
• Tent assembly
• Fire lighting

All of it sounds very discouraging, perhaps. It is nevertheless very appealing for daring hikers.

The operation thus requires the following steps:

• GET A BUS FROM ANTIGUA TO LA SOLEDAD: unfortunately the first hindrance lies in the fact that the first bus in the morning leaves not earlier than 11 am from the Bus Terminal. You need to inquire around for the exact bus position. The map below shows more or less the departure point. The bus approximately takes 1 hour and costs 10 GTQ.

• GET YOUR CAMPING GEAR: either you may buy it second-hand at Antigua market; or you have it already with you; or you rent it from a specialized shop / tour agency; or, finally, you can borrow it from private houses in La Soledad, where the trailhead is located. Advised to do so, I ventured into this last option and it went quite well, apart from the price (50 GTQ for the sleeping bag rental + 150 for the tent, then lowered to 100 GTQ), the equipment quality (sleeping bags not so thick and broken tent) and the time to arrange everything (almost 1 hour from arrival). It was however possible indeed.
• FIND YOUR WAY UPHILL: the trail is actually safe and well-marked. With a regular GPS app like maps.me you are technically set to go.
• PAY THE ENTRANCE FEE: of course, as usual in Guatemala, a fee is inevitably requested after a couple of Kilometres from the trailhead. Fare is 50 GTQ. If you travel independently, be sure to state that you know very well the trail and you have been before. That will avoid you more pressing questions from the ticket agent. You will be also asked to fill out a form with your data.

• FIND THE CAMPING SPOT: if you wander by yourself, you need to detect a free, suitable area for camping. Tours have already their assigned slots instead, generally under a sheltering shack. For me the best clearing was “The Y” point (14°30′27.33″N 90°52′42.12″W), about 5 km uphill, 3.660 mt high and 1250 mt difference in altitude. It took me about 3 hours (with all food and gear to carry) to complete this stretch. From there you still have 1.4 Km to the Acatenango summit. However, this is a “protected” place in the woods with less wind, otherwise very pungent on top. There you may even start a fire, which of course is effortlessly provided within the tour experience. The Y campground is free of charge and void of people when I arrived.

• WALK ALONE AT NIGHT TO CHERISH THE FUEGO SHOCKING ERUPTION: after you set up your tent, you have to wait for night time (or at least sunset time), when the rutilant lapilli and lava are best visible in the darkness by contrast. At this stage you have two options: either you challenge the gusty, terrible plateau above (wind was so strenuous at that time); or, more wisely, you may take the 1.3 Km trail (with a phone or a lamp) to the commercial camp (14°29′51.45″N 90°52′46.21″W) southward. Although the trail is quite straightforward and flat, night time and strong wind make this simple walk quite venturesome. You may start distinguishing the hellish magma from half way.

• DECIDE WHETHER YOU WISH TO EMBARK INTO ANOTHER NIGHT EXPEDITION: at the commercial camp the view is amazing. Only tour people are supposed to sleep there though. If you still have guts and energy you may continue closer to the Fuego for another 2 hours (one way) to observe the eruption from a very privileged viewpoint. Normally, the activity highest peak is from 10 pm to 12 pm. Unfortunately, by the time I got to the commercial camp, I was already frozen and unwilling to walk 5 more hours in the darkness. You could maybe stealthily follow a departing tour, unless guides ask you for money : )
• ENDURE THE COLD NIGHT: I decided to revert to my camp site at around 11 pm. It was definitely too freezing and windy to stay out. Make sure you are well equipped to spend a night at almost 4000 mt high (temperatures may drop below 0 Celsius). Apart from the weather harshness, you can also be faced with unexpected mishaps during sleeping time. For example, a bunch of loud people starting a fire and getting drunk just beside your tent from 2 am to 7 am : )
• PRAY TO BE LUCKY WITH THE WEATHER FOR THE SUMMIT THE FOLLOWING MORNING: it did not happen to me, too foggy regrettably.
• DESCEND THE SLIPPERY TRAIL TO ORIGIN

To recap I paid 50 GTQ  for the sleeping bag + 50 GTQ (shared with a friend) for the tent rental, plus 50 GTQ for the entrance, which give 150 GTQ in total, plus 20 GTQ for the two public buses. Food and beverage (I spent about 100 GTQ) complete the picture.

To be fair, although you probably end up spending a bit less or the same, I would perhaps recommend a tour for this specific case, unless you have already your own equipment (no rental then). Although tours could turn out to be massive and boring, nonetheless they provide you with good, no-surprise lodging, hot drinks and meals, constant guidance and support, etc. Additionally, you don’t need to carry heavy backpacks to the top.

That being said, still you get more freedom and sense of achievement when doing all the steps by yourself. This is why in the end is hard to decide which option is the best. In any case you will gaze at a stunningly dramatic event. It’s then a win-win situation…

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