If you are looking for something out of the mainstream and the “Gringo trail”, well, this post could be very useful for you, especially for those in quest of rural and authentic experiences among locals without much comfort.
You will be taken back to the simple, rustic life without fancy amenities and daily facilities. Be prepared, then, for a very frugal stay. At the time of my stay (April 2022) no “overnight tourists” were reported in Sonzapote (Zapatera) since the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic. Only Santa Maria (Western part of the island) has a couple of basic hotels options (apparently expensive though).
You could confirm this fact by walking around to Volcan Zapatera (highest peak in the island) or Cerro Las Banderas and checking the state of the trails: completely forgotten or for limited local use. The same applies to a community blog, which turned out not to be updated for many years. Contact numbers are indeed not working these days.
Hence, eventually, I decided nevertheless to venture myself into the unknown, but in the cheap way, as private boats from Granada (Puerto Asese) charge quite much for the crossing.
DAY 1: GRANADA – SAN JOSÉ DEL MOMBACHO – SONZAPOTE (ZAPATERA)
Unless you have a vehicle at your disposal (any will do, the road is quite acceptable), you are forced to catch a truck leaving from Granada market at around 11 am. Running times should be Friday, Saturday, Monday and Wednesday. Check it out, however, the day before at this location:
One way price is 40 C and the ride should take approximately 1 h 30 min / 2 hours. This stretch is already worth the trip ! Local hamlets on a dusty road will bring you back many years !
At the end of the road, in the deserted San José del Mombacho, you have subsequently to inquire a boatman or fisherman for a “ride” to Zapatera Island. You shouldn’t encounter problems until 3 pm. The price for a one-way boat should be between 500 and 700 C, even though at the beginning you are asked 1000 C or more. I closed the deal at 700 Cordobas myself. Although you have many hamlets scattered around the island, I believed that only in Sonzapote (1 hour sailing from Mombacho) you could get authentic and inexpensive accommodation. And as a matter of fact that was the case.
The boat leaves you at a homely port near a group of shacks, from where the boatman went to ask for accommodation on my behalf. After some time, confirmation arrived. No price was talked about though. I was hosted by an indigenous family inside a “work-in-progress” hut with marvelous view on the lake and stars. Amazing location.
The food is very basic: rice, beans, eggs, fried bananas and sometimes fried fish. No menu available : ) They also provide you with water pulled out from a local well.
Be aware that no electricity (carry your power supplies), shower, Wi-fi or shops are available. Mobile internet signal is acceptable though. Therefore bring whatever you need from Granada. Drinks can be cooled down with sporadic ice they can offer from the fishing activities. Lunches are served around 12.30 while dinners at 7 pm (you have to eat in the darkness nonetheless).
Near the house you have quick access to a tiny beach to swim and wash yourself and a wonderful sunset point (near the local school) where you may also admire pre-Colombian statues and petroglyphs. Very interesting indeed. At sunset, the superb Mombacho volcano will certainly fascinate you.
At night, after dinner, you may gaze at the limpid stars from the hut, where a refreshing wind soothes you after a scorching day.
DAY 2: VOLCAN ZAPATERA & CERRO LAS BANDERAS
After breakfast (from 6 am on), you may head for a few places in the island. The issue here is manifold:
- Trails have disappeared or are almost invisible and with plenty of lush vegetation;
- Your community hosts won’t accept to let you wander too far away alone without a member accompanying you;
- Temperatures in April were very suffocating after 10 am.
I thereby resolved to have a walk up to the highest peak in the island (Zapatera Volcano). Although I was promised that a viewpoint was accessible on top, in fact after 1 h 30 of a steep, stony, leafy, hidden trail (a member escorted me with a machete to open the way) no openings through the thick vegetation were detected. The guy advised then that a possible “mirador” could be found 30 min further, but he was not sure since he had not walked there for the previous 3 months. Given the evident uncertainty and the raising heat, I finally resolved to desist (I made it to the top though).
In the afternoon I tried by myself to reach another hill (Cerro Las Banderas) with “supposed” view, but no clear trails were available. I could not see other people around either. I desisted a few hundred meters before getting to the top : ) Still, quite an exploring activity !!
In order to try your luck, maybe better to ask for guidance here as well, without expectations nevertheless !
After this failed attempt, I succeeded however in indulging myself with a sunset bath in the lake to cherish the imposing, spick and span Mombacho volcano again.
DAY 3: SONZAPOTE – SAN JOSÉ DEL MOMBACHO – GRANADA
Should you wish to leave the Island, better to agree with the community the night before. They have their own handmade boat too. Price was included in the final bill (bring cash enough, needless to say) which surprisingly was very affordable. Two nights accommodation, meals, tour, ice and return boat cost about 25 Usd per person. Very honest in my opinion.
Check also in advance the availability of the truck bringing you back to Granada, since hours and days may change without notice. In addition, there is no much traffic for a hitchhiking either : )
In summary I relished a lot this corner of humble, local life. Although I must admit that I was happy with no more than 2 nights here, I nonetheless have to report a pleasant, authentic experience completely aside from the usual tourist paths. The lack of basic facilities (electricity, shower, Wi-Fi, plugs, cold drinks, etc.) made everything so real and genuine too. People may not be able to speak English though, just be aware. In my case I had no problems at all with Spanish. Very kind and helpful at any time. Another story compared with the over-exploited Ometepe…
