How to cross La Balsa border from Peru to Ecuador (July 2022)

Leaving aside the Amazonian border / river crossings, La Balsa is certainly the most remote and uncommon contact point between Peru and Ecuador. Initially and doubtfully marked as closed by the Peruvian migration office and some online sources, I may instead confirm that since March 2022 is open again. Bear in mind, however, that it has limited working hours: Mon – Fri, 8 – 20.

My trip in Peru in fact started from Trujillo, from where I caught a night bus to Jaen with Turismo Dias, due to the fact that the competitor Emtrafesa’s web page was out of order and this stretch sells out quite fast (I bought it on Redbus page actually). Buying the ticket on the spot was quite risky indeed.

• FROM JAEN TO SAN IGNACIO

Although theoretically a direct Jaen (Peru) – Loja (Ecuador) bus should exist (see here), I strongly recommend to split the itinerary in some parts, to better enjoy the landscape, rest a bit and tentatively try to hitchhike : )

In the latter case, head for the minivan terminal in Jaen since 6 am on, as shown in the map below:

The minivan takes approx. 2 hours to reach destination for a cost of 20 S/. Since it was Sunday and the border was closed, I had myself to sleep in San Ignacio. Prices are affordable, no worries.

• FROM SAN IGNACIO TO LA BALSA (BORDER)

The most common option here is to share a taxi colectivo which could cost about 20-25 S/. Alternatively, you may easily hitchhike from the upper end of the town. I only waited about 15 min when I was there. In fact, my lift ended in Namballe (5 Km before the border, from where moto taxis charge you about 5 S/ for the last extent). Further on I was picked up by a generous motorbike (it was raining cats and dogs though). The road is totally paved.

• AT THE BORDER (PERUVIAN SIDE)

The border was very quiet and calm. I only had a couple of people in front of me. The oddest thing happening there was the officer asking for 3 Covid vaccine doses to everybody (in and out). Two foreigners were instructed to get the third dose in Namballe’s clinic, to avoid being rejected. The officer even lent them a motorbike to get there : ) Another peculiar situation regarded the fingerprints and picture not requested to enter in the first place. Official info in July 2022 truly reported that only 2 doses were required. Strange things : )

By the way,  it is better to exchange your Soles in Dollars (official currency in Ecuador) on the Peruvian side. Just inquire the shop opposite the police station.

Peru immigration office

• AT THE BORDER (ECUADORIAN SIDE)

Right after the Peruvian formalities, you have to cross the bridge to the other side. Again some oddities have to be described. Firstly, the migration officer was more than 1 hour late (she arrived after 9 am). Secondly, no public transportation is available nor ATMs nor shops. Only a frugal eatery to have breakfast while waiting for the late officer : ). Ecuador is more laidback: just two doses or the Covid test.

• FROM LA BALSA ON

As stated earlier, no buses or minivans currently run from the border to Zumba, the following big town. You may then rely either on shared taxis (rancheras), expected few times in a day, or on hitchhiking, as I did. I was lucky to be directly left in Vilcabamba, my final destination, reached in about 4 hours on bumpy, dirty roads in the middle of the high jungle. Alternatively, take a shared car to Zumba and subsequently a bus to Loja. In Zumba you will have more services as well.

Dirty roads from La Balsa to Zumba

To sum up, this border is definitely recommended for the following reasons:

• Very fluid, without much waiting time
• Remote villages in the way
• Dramatic scenery

The downsides, however, are:

• Limited working hours (Mon-Fri, 8 – 20), with variables : )
• No ATMs, shops, SIM cards sellers, etc.
• No public transportation
• 3 Covid vaccine doses are asked by Peru (as of July 2022)

All in all, though, I would repeat it again : )) If you are coming from Ecuador, instead, please be warned that Ecuador won’t stamp you out unless you have the 3 doses, as requested by Peru.

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