Ecuador has 10 mountains over 5000 mt (16,400ft). Among those, only two could theoretically be tackled on one’s own: Iliniza Norte (5126) and Tungurahua (5016). This might be possible because these peaks have no permanent glaciers or thick snow on the top. The others, instead, by Ecuadorian guidelines and reasonable understanding, require mountaineering preparation, tailored equipment, technical skills and knowledgeable guidance. Although even for Iliniza Norte and Tungurahua a guide could be useful, it is not compulsory nor necessary to hire one. At least if you have essential trekking skills and altitude endurance. Be advised, however, that weather conditions may always change and that it is definitely recommended not to undertake any high mountain trek alone.
That being said, after summiting the affordable Rucu Pichincha (4696 mt a.s.l.) near Quito, I decided to challenge Ecuador 8th highest peak alone. All with previous investigation, of course. This is how I managed to succeed in my attempt.
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TAKE A BUS FROM QUITUMBE BUS STATION IN QUITO TO LACATUNGA OR MACHACHI
Both destinations will work: the first exactly leaving you at the “El Chaupi” crossroad (before Lacatunga); the second at the previous town called Machachi. Buses run quite frequently. From Machachi, further vans to El Chaupi depart regularly. In my case I caught a Lacatunga bus (1.85 USD to the crossroad) and instead of waiting for another bus at the Chaupi fork, I successfully hitchhiked to get as far as Chaupi. All very fast.
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SLEEP ONE NIGHT IN EL CHAUPI (3336 MT A.S.L.)
Besides being a quiet, authentic village, this is a perfect spot for first acclimatisation. I personally stayed at Nina Rum hostel, with a very basic private room (no heating nor hot shower) for 10 USD with decent breakfast included. Accommodation must be arranged in the near Hostel Andes Alps, where the friendly owner Fernando will offer you either a superior private room for 20 USD or a rustic solution for half of the price. Eating options are very limited in town, that is a couple of rudimentary eateries with two or three (non-vegetarian) dishes. Very cheap though. Pay attention not to go for dinner after 8 pm, as you might end up finding everything closed.
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CONTACT NUEVOS HORIZONTES REFUGIO WHILE HIRING A SLEEPING BAG (+ HELMET)
Although might be technically possible to reach the Iliniza summit and get back to Chaupi in a full day, I would not recommend you to do so, mainly because you need to register at the National Park office, only open after 8 am; and also because you risk arriving late at the summit (mostly cloudy and rainy in the afternoon). In addition, honestly, you may better acclimatise and amuse if you take the ascent more gradually. Personal advice, needless to say.
In any case, it is recommendable to contact via Whatsapp the refugio’s owner through this number: +593999581771 or via Facebook. Alternatively , you may reach the caretaker Freddie via this other number: +593989801945. As said, it is wiser to warn them because either the refugio can be closed or fully booked already (especially in the weekends).
To hire the sleeping bag, ask Fernando at the Hostel Andes Alps (10 USD for a very fine and warm piece), where you may also leave your stuff while up; helmets can instead be rented at cheaper rates (4.50 USD against 6 USD in Andes Alps) in Llovizna hostel. Although not compulsory, I would dare to say that for few dollars, it is judicious not to risk (several rolling stones above). Llovizna required me to leave any ID there as a pledge.
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SET OFF FOR NUEVOS HORIZONTES REFUGIO THE FOLLOWING DAY
Here you have two ways: either you charter a private jeep from the main roundabout (until La Virgen parking lot, 7.7 Km away and 626 mt upper) or you walk all the way to the Refugio (12 Km, 1400 mt difference in height).
My piece of advice is the second option, as you have all the time to make it there during day time. Moreover, there is no rush, since 4 – 5 hours are enough to complete the hike. Finally it is a great exercise to progressively get used to physical effort and altitude. I easily left Chaupi at 9 am (I purchased a few goods in a local shop) after breakfast in Andes Alps (from 7.30 am on).
The first checkpoint is Los Illinizas National Park entrance, about 4 Km further and open after 8 am. You need to write down your name, passport number, age, nationality and emergency contact.
Very important here: DO NOT state you are attempting the summit alone, otherwise you could incur into troubles. Just declare you are heading for the refugio. The ranger is anyway very nice and not so inquisitive. He even lent me a broom stick for keeping away stray dogs and supporting my hike as a trekking pole (it turned out to be quite useful later). No ID nor entry fee requested. Fast and free.
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REACHING THE REFUGIO NUEVOS HORIZONTES (4720 MT A.S.L.)
After overcoming the park entrance, you need to walk for another 4 Km to arrive to La Virgen parking lot (3900 mt high), last stop for vehicles. It is a pleasant hike through farms on a cobbled and dirty road gently going up. Stick to the official path (follow your GPS + road signs) and beware of the dogs. From La Virgen, the proper trail starts: 4.2 Km with 774 mt difference in altitude. The trail is definitely well-marked (even with signposts) and does not present special challenges. The last km is the toughest perhaps. The Refugio will be only visible at the very end.
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REFUGIO‘S TERMS AND CONDITIONS
When I arrived there, a French hiking group was just about to leave. It took me around 4 to 5 hours from Chaupi. The accommodation costs 30 USD for a bare mattress + two or three meals. Theoretically lunch is not included, practically I got offered by Freddie a welcoming soup. To be on the safe side, maybe bring some snacks for the afternoon. You can then arrange dinner and breakfast easily. 6.30 PM dinner time, 5 AM breakfast. But hours may be very flexible, especially if you are alone like I was there. Freddie is also a mountain guide. However, he requested 50 additional dollars to bring me to the top through “El Paso de la Muerte”, the regular way. I rejected the proposal. On the other hand, he did not discourage me to go alone. He was simply very relaxed and not that desperate to lower his fare. Negotiation never really started.
At the Refugio you will have a weak mobile signal, a toilet, electricity and boiled water to drink (I carried a 2 liters bottle from Chaupi to be filled up). Meals are quite acceptable for that altitude.
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TO THE SUMMIT (5126 MT A.S.L.)
After the negotiation failed, I resolved myself to take my chance. Since I had no climbing skills nor much tolerance to precipices and snow, I went through an unconventional way: El Arenal, normally used only for descents. I set the alarm at 4.45 AM and had breakfast at 5 AM. I left the refugio at 5.40 AM, about twenty minutes before sunrise, still dark outside.
By Freddie’s indications, I firstly took a “shortcut” flanking the rock walls and towering the Quebrada Pilongo. This way you avoid reverting 1.1 Km (316 mt lower) down to the Arenal crossroad for then being obliged to go up the same distance and difference in height. Instead, you follow the path from the Refugio to the top (normal way) and after about 300 meters (passing the lagoon trail and the gorge), you swerve to the right keeping a linear trajectory close to the wall until you intercept the Arenal trail (approx. 1 Km). The shortcut is not dangerous.
From the point you hit the Arenal trail, you need to ascend around 450 meters in 1 Km. This is the hardest, most nightmarish part, due to the crumbly sandy rocks, the increasing altitude and the staggering steepness (up to 60 %). This path is almost never taken for ascents because of its demanding features. On the other hand, it is perfect for solo trekkers without much climbing experience because it “only” requires solid strength in your legs. The trail is well marked but be careful about the rolling stones (wear a helmet possibly).
Once you have reached the upper ridge, you are not done yet. The last 250 mt to the summit are less demanding in ascent but more in climbing abilities, put more to the test by possible ice and snow. There are a couple of pitches in which you need to fully use your hands. Feasible with patience though.
Eventually it took me around 3 hours to reach the top from the Refugio, plus little more than 1 hour for a fast descent through the same trail. Trekking poles or broom sticks are warmly recommended.
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DOWN TO CHAUPI
In my case, not to spend another 30 USD for accommodation (Chaupi is cheaper), I only passed by the Refugio to rapidly collect my belongings and greet Freddie. After a short break, I immediately started the descent to Chaupi, through the same initial path.
Luckily, by the time I got to La Virgen parking lot, a private bus was dropping some trekkers and offered me to jump in for free. I saved at least a couple of hours and much energy.
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CONCLUSION
Although I was a bit concerned by my physical skills and the path feasibility for a passionate trekker (with mountain experience but no climbing background), in the end I managed with great satisfaction to reach the summit. Having completed the whole expedition all alone increased a lot self-esteem and gratification. The expedition is totally doable for staunch trekkers with high altitude experience (try at least the Rucu Pichincha first). You do not need to climb so much through the Arenal path. Nevertheless, I would not have taken El Paso de la Muerte without a guide. Not able to recommend here.
Furthermore, I could make it with a very exiguous budget: 30 USD for the Refugio + 10 USD for the sleeping bag rental + 4.50 for the helmet. Hard to spend less, unless you try the direct way from Chaupi straight to the top, which I would not recommend as said above.
Hey my friend! First of all thanks for the guide, I used all this info to successfully summit Iliniza Norte a couple days ago by myself.
I wonder if you could update it with a couple of details?
Firstly, as of March 2023 you DO need to leave ID at the park office, on the table was a whole load of Ecuadorian cedulas and only one foreign passport (mine), so clearly a rule that applies to everyone.
Also the officer was very, very suspicious that I was going to attempt the peak alone (which was true) and kept checking that I was only going to the refugio. Even then, he said I still should have an official permission letter (which you get by emailing losilinizas@ambiente.gob.ec), presumably only for a group.
After much convincing from me, he just made me sign a waiver with my name, age, emergency contact etc and let me in, but I cannot guarantee that this will work for everyone. I imagine if lots of people try this they’ll start getting stricter. Might be easier to say you just have a reservation at one of the lodges inside the park, and you’re not even climbing the mountain.
Note: Freddie, the guardian of the lodge, as you said, couldn’t care less if you want to climb the peak yourself or whether you have permission.
Lastly: there are several good routes for this climb on Wikiloc. I downloaded several in GPX format to compare, all were the same. Personally, starting at 4:30 AM in the dark and climbing the ‘normal’ ascension route, I would’ve been lost without this. I used the OSMand+ app, downloaded the offline map for Ecuador and imported the GPX.
IMPORTANT: if climbing the normal route to ascend, when you reach a point with a peak in front of you and one path going around the left, one to the right (close to Paso de la Muerte on your mapping app), for god’s sake go RIGHT, not left. My GPS was a little inaccurate and I thought the bigger path to the left was the correct Paso de la Muerte… it was easily the scariest climbs of my life, scrambling over narrow ridges, on slippery rock, near cliff edges. Only after 30 minutes did I realise there was no way this could be the correct path. I got back – barely – went RIGHT instead, and found that the actual ‘Paso’ (in those conditions, without snow) was actually quite easy and safe, with a little careful climbing over rocks… nowhere near the edge. There is zero signage to show you which way you should go with the peak ahead of you.
uff, that was tough : )) for me very easy, i was just saying i was going to refugio, nothing more : )) then I took the steep arenal , no climbing involved..but thanks for your sharing!!