How to cross the Lethem (Guyana) – Bonfim (Brazil) border on a budget

Certainly the 550 Km stretch from Georgetown to Lethem is not for the faintest of hearts. To start with, minibuses companies have created a “cartel price” quite inaccessible to low budget travellers. At the time of research (October 2022) the cheapest company seemed to be Carly’s Bus Service charging a hefty sum of 16,000 GYD (around 80 USD) to “suffer” for 16 or 17 hours (excluding inconveniences). Other companies even ask for jaw-dropping 18,000 GYD (90 USD). Take it or leave it. Bear in mind that for a strange reason, the return from Lethem to GT “only” costs 14,000 GYD. No clear explanation is provided, regrettably.

However, these companies are making tons of money out of it, with the excuse of fuel price increase or repairs needed. In addition, if your documents are not ok (e.g. Cubans or Brazilians) you will be charged more to “bribe” police officers along the route (quite a common practice in Guyana apparently).

Therefore, in order not to be accomplice in this rip-off, I resolved to go for the uncertain way of the local minibuses and hitchhiking. Just to be clear, there are many manners to approach this route. This is just one of those. I also realized afterwards what could have been done better.

• FROM STABROEK MARKET TAKE 42, 43 OR 72 MINIVAN TO THE SOUTH

42 leaves you at the Soesdyke junction or further at Hyde Park junction. It costs 300 GYD (I luckily got away for free though) and is maybe the cheapest way to start with your hitchhiking after Georgetown. However, after waiting for about 1 hour along the road, no car pulled off (been told that the “thumb up” gesture is not even recognized in Guyana).

Hence I stopped another minibus (72) heading for the remote Mahdia, which leads you almost 200 Km (5 hours drive) further until the jungle town of Mabura Hill (where it turns right) through a very dirty, bumpy and muddy road (after Linden). In that case I exploited the misunderstanding with the driver, as I understood 1,500 GYD instead of the required 5,000 GYD. In the end I got away with 2,000 GYD (10 USD). Along the way we had to halt  at the several police checkpoints (to show passports), where cops were constantly bribed by passengers or even the driver with missing driving licence.

To conclude the topic, minivan 43 also could be useful as it drops you in Linden (109 Km past Georgetown) from where you stand better chances to get another ride.

Since there are several stops during the journey, you only need to bring some water (snacks are optional).

In Soesdyke (Kuru Kururu) I was also told that the last trucks (for free hitchhiking) leave on Friday. Then nothing before Monday (I was travelling on Saturday myself). I would thus advise to try the shoestring option from Monday to Friday, if possible. And leave as early as possible in the morning to increase your odds.

• FROM MABURA HILL TO KURUPUKARI (FERRY POINT)

In Mabura Hill you may take some rest (cheap restaurant with toilets) and buy stuff while registering again at the police station. One more time, from here minivans do not give up yet. They still ask for 15,000 GYD (75 USD), even though you are almost half way. Absurd, really. So I made friends with the kind police officers (they gifted me even with an orange : ) who genuinely pledged to find a cheaper solution for me.

After waiting for about 2 hours, eventually a car going to Lethem stopped by and (a bit reluctantly, to be honest) under one officer’s persuasion, accepted to take me in. Conditions were not clear right away, as I believed that with a generous tip I could make it. Instead, the following day they asked me 5,000 GYD, still a much lower amount than the whopping 15,000 requested by the minivans.

The road keeps being unpaved and very rough, especially if it rains. It takes another 3 hours to cover the 104 Km gap to Kurupukari. In the event you do not reach Kurupukari before 6 pm, then you are stuck until the following morning, when the ferry boat resumes operations again. That ended up being my case : )

There are at least 3 places where you may spend the night. However, I am not sure why everybody (maybe price) gathers at the same spot right before the river crossing point (the restaurant is called Annie’s Native Delight). It might be the cheapest, but it is also the crowdiest and most hellish too. As a matter of fact, all late vans bring passengers here for the night. When I was there, at least 3 minivans arrived with noisy, penniless Cubans not allowing to sleep. For the record, meals (fried chicken with French fries) cost 1,000 GYD, whereas the hammock (you have to mount it by yourself) between 500 GYD (small) and 1,000 GYD (big).  A blanket is provided at least. You won’t rest so much nevertheless, be prepared.

Breakfast is 800 GYD (coffee and fried food).

At 5.30 am all people are already on the move to catch the 6 am ferry to cross the Essequibo River, maybe the best part of the entire trip. You may see the beautiful sunrise above this jungle river (there are also some eco-lodges nearby).

• KURUPUKARI (FERRY POINT) TO LETHEM

Three more police checkpoints and 215 km on an untarmacked (but better) road divide you from the final border town in Guyana. The road is getting better and better and more villages may be seen from the window. The scenery changes from jungle to Savanna. Still you may find small shops along the road.

In Lethem each bus service has its own station. I personally was dropped near the main roundabout leading to the border, where I was shown a Chinese store exchanging Guyanese Dollars to Brazilian Reais. The store is named Hua Long (available in Google maps), 100 meters from the roundabout. I was advised it was better to change currency before the border (indeed no visible money changers on the Brazilian side), even though the exchange rate was not satisfactory (23 BRL for 1,000 GYD). One of the countless Chinese businesses in this country.

• TO THE BORDER

It is about 1.5 Km from the Chinese shop to walk to the border. All was very quiet (on a Sunday) and hassle-free. No departure tax or anything. Apparently safe. Then, to reach the Brazilian immigration outpost, you have to follow 2 more Kilometers and cross a border bridge. Again no many questions asked and no special documents. Very easy.

• FROM THE BORDER TO BONFIM AND BOA VISTA

Since there is no taxi or public service, you have to stop some car  (not so difficult) to cover the about 4 km to get as far as the Bonfim bus station and (a bit further) town centre. Since I was wrecked, I decided to opt for a night stop-over close to the terminal (I negotiated 80 BRL instead of 100 for a room). Bear in mind that buses to Boa Vista only run once a day at 7 am (Sundays excluded) for 40 BRL, whereas shared taxis run several trips for 50 BRL (but they should drop you at your final destination).

To summarize, it was a hard and costly border crossing which requires much adaptability and patience. You have to stand unpredictable events (low-volume traffic, rain, floods, impassable roads, flat tyres, breakages, police issues, etc.) and stay on the road for 24 – 48 hours (it took me around 28 hours). The more you are willing to wait and spend the night anywhere (no safety concerns to my eyes), the more you have chances to reduce your costs (but you probably have to spend a 2 nights transit). I would certainly advise not to catch the standard minivans, as they really look like taking so much advantage of this situation. Go for the jungle adventure and try your luck !

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