How to cross the Oiapoque (Brazil) – Saint Georges (French Guyana) border

The Amazonian border crossing between Brazil and French Guyana is not well trodden indeed. Although some locals do use this way, backpackers generally speaking steer away from these remote lands (I personally only bumped into one French man in my two days crossing), for many reasons, such as undeveloped tourism, language skills requirements, security issues, no hostel accommodation, expensive cost of living, sultry or very wet climate, etc.

My experience started from Macapá (Brazil) to end up in Cayenne (French Guyana). Here is how it went step by step.

• FROM MACAPÁ TO OIAPOQUE (578 KM)

From Macapá central bus station, there are two bus companies (Amazon Bus and Santanense) both leaving at the same time (7 pm, every day) and at the same price (around 140 BRL). Although it is advisable to buy your ticket in the morning, you should be still able to find a seat last minute. No guarantee though. The journey lasts around 11 hours with a couple of stops in the way. Be careful, however, to bring some food or snacks with you, as the midnight eating halt is quite short and not so comfortable (many people ordering at the same time and few options available).

The road is 2/3 paved and 1/3 not, with lack of particular dangers in between. Be prepared, notwithstanding, to a heedless bus driving : ). At around 6 am you are dropped at the Oiapoque bus station, approx. 2 km away from the town centre. A frugal eatery is placed just opposite the terminal, open since that time (coffee and sandwiches available).

• IN OIAPOQUE

Not much to see there really. Nevertheless, I strongly relished my Couchsurfing stay (music and barbecue at night) together with a local Flamengo bar (football matches are shown upon request) and purposeless strolls under the scorching sun. You may find money changers near the river, just ask around.

Since the Brazilian migration office is only open from 8 to 12 and 14 to 18 h, you have the option to stamp out from Brazil even the previous day, without queues or main troubles.  Very kind people. The migration office is located not far from the river departure point, as shown in the map below.

• FROM OIAPOQUE TO SAINT GEORGES

Boats from the river quay depart quite frequently all day long. Be sure to find some other travellers to share the boat with, not to incur into additional (foreigner) charges. As far as I was told in October 2022, the “shared” fee is  30 BRL, whereas the “private” is 50 BRL, quite a difference. Although a crossing bridge is technically present, only vehicles are admitted in theory. Besides, you then won’t be able to catch further transportation to Cayenne. I would recommend therefore, for pleasure and practicality, to stick to the boat option.

The enjoyable boat trip across the Rio Oiapoque lasts around 15 minutes without fearsome jolts (at least when I was there in dry season).

• IN SAINT GEORGES

Saint Georges is a tiny river border town without major attractions honestly. From the disembarkation point you have all at hand: ATM for money withdrawal (behind La Poste, the mail office, right on the left of the town hall, La Mairie) and minivan terminal. Even eateries are available, if you need. Mind the price shock from Brazil though : )

The minivans to Cayenne leave every hour or so at around 100 meters (on the left) from the arrival jetty, on the river bank itself. You can’t miss them. The regular price is a whopping 40 €, although the sly drivers will try to charge you 50. Be aware. Hitchhiking options could be available out of the town, even though you might wait for hours under the sun (very scanty traffic reported), not sure if one stop is enough to get as far as Cayenne. Pick your choice, of course.

• FROM SAINT GEORGES TO CAYENNE (192 KM)

3 hours and 1 stop are enough to reach the capital. The passport check is located 78 km onwards. Very quick and straightforward, especially for Europeans. I personally was not asked the yellow fever certificate, even though by law it should be requested. After the 20 min lunch break on the way, you will be finally dropped at the Cayenne “bus station” (only a random stop actually) very close to the main square (Place des Palmistes). The neighbourhood is quite ok during day time. You may easily walk from there.

To  summarize, the border crossing is fairly simple and effortless. Probably the main painpoint there is the shocking fare (40 Eur) for just 192 Km between Saint Georges and Cayenne. This is called price cartel in my opinion : )

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