TravelBert in Oman

Oman was initially not included in my itinerary. First because of its geographical position below my planned route (Egypt and Northern Middle East); secondly due to the bureaucratic barrier posed by Saudi Arabia (no tourist or transit visas available); thirdly, the country is deemed to be fairly expensive for low-budget backpackers. Since then it happened to me to reach Dubai (to meet a friend), I thus decided to extend my improvised visit in the Arabic Peninsula to its southernmost corner.

Mutrah, Muscat
Mutrah, Muscat

I was actually concerned about the third point mentioned above. Generally price-sensitive, long-haul (in multiple countries and over 6 months) backpackers travel with maximum 30 or 35 Euros per day. That for Oman seemed to be simply unrealistic according to Lonely Planet or similar sources. The main pain points were especially converging towards accommodation and transportation, also considering I was travelling alone without any chance to split costs. Unfortunately, Oman only in recent times has begun to care about International tourism, hotel logistics and road infrastructure. Hence, all the tourist sector is still under construction, seeking for more competitive rates. Take into account that at the time of writing there are no hostels in the whole country. Moreover, due to the low population density and the rough remoteness of certain inner areas, no public  transportation or affordable accommodation is provided in most of the cases.

I therefore started to search alternative ways to possibly reduce my daily expenditures within the afore-quoted boundaries. After consulting web pages, talking to people and testing solutions, I came up with the following “good practices” to move and overnight cheaply. Whilst it is just a partial and maybe known list, it may notwithstanding offer some “forgotten” or “experimented” hints to resort to.

1. FREE ENTRY VISA IF ARRIVING FROM DUBAI:

This is a trick I read on Internet and could positively experiment on myself, even though many other travellers were not so lucky indeed. In short, if you only arrive to Dubai airport and access Oman overland, you should be entitled to max 3 weeks of free visa. It should apply to most nationalities and with no restrictions, even without a sticker from Dubai immigration police (I had none in fact). This way you save 200 AED or 20 OMR, about 43 Eur. Moreover, it might turn out to be more economical to fly to Dubai and catch a bus to Muscat (only 55 AED, about 12 Eur), than directly landing in Muscat, which has fewer international connections. The only pain point here is you have to pay a UAE exit fee of 35 AED (approx. 7 Eur). Still, all together, you might save quite some money.

 

2. USE MWASALAT’S URBAN BUSES IN MUSCAT:

The recently implemented network encompasses tens of bus stops from Al Mabelah to the central Ruwi station and even further to Mutrah and Old Muscat. You may also find useful stops at the airport or, if coming from Dubai, at Azaiba bus station. The fares range from 0.2 OMR (about 0.45 Eur) for short stretches to 0.5 OMR (approx. 1.15 Eur) for very long hauls. Consider that the city is all disseminated along about 50 Km (from the airport to Old Muscat). Thus actually these are very competitive prices. And unlikely taxis or minivans, the route and stops are very clear for foreigners. Buses have air-conditioning and information panel too.

3. EASY COUCHSURFING:

In Muscat as well as in most of the country’s cities or big towns, it is really straightforward to find couchsurfing hosts. As a matter of fact, I never paid one single night in my 10 days stay in Oman. And I certainly could have remained for an entire month at the same conditions. Firstly I would suggest to maybe buy a local sim card with a data package included, so that it is easy for you to text with your hosts. I went immediately to Muscat Grand Mall and purchased a local sim with 1 GB of data and 2 OMR of phone calls for 7 OMR. Secondly open a couchsurfing profile (if you haven’t done it yet) and start requesting accommodation. I was literally amazed at how fast replies came back to me and how good was the positive responses rate. I could even single out my preference in Muscat. In addition, I was always provided with a private room often with bathroom included. Top. Hosts are so friendly and flexible that they leave their house door open for you or give you the keys without any hesitation. Moreover, they are often available to drive you around for an exploratory tour. Plus they often invite you for lunch or dinner. In Masirah Island I was presented with delicious lobsters and fried squids. Just spectacular. In Bahla I was offered a very tasty meal by a cheerful group of IT technicians housing me. Don’t forget to leave a nice review for your host. This is all they ask you in return. Your thankful presence is just enough for them. Astounding hospitality. I will never forget it.

Couchsurfing hosts in Hilf, Masirah Island
Couchsurfing hosts in Hilf, Masirah Island

 

4. EAT AT LOCAL PLACES:

Unlikely accommodation and transport, food is not that expensive in Oman. There are plenty of coffee shops or basic eateries in Muscat and outside where you may get an abundant dish for 1 or 1.5 OMR (about 2 – 3 Eur). Many of them are run by Pakistanis, Indians or other nationalities. But you may also find local owners as well. I often stopped near the bus, ferry or gas stations where local customers gather and are offered very competitive prices. Also because there are frequently several establishments next door or opposite one another. However, in general, most of the restaurants outside Muscat are definitely popular and built in a frugal style. You don’t have to search long. Therefore you may doubtlessly go cheap there. Only try perhaps to avoid food courts or shopping malls, because there meals might be a bit more expensive. As a side note, I observed that buying at the supermarket and eating / cooking at home is not so worthy in Oman. With such low prices in restaurants, I found it not so convenient in the end. In addition, outside you can be quicker, try different dishes (Omanis eat a lot of rice with mutton, beef, chicken or fish) and meet authentic local people.

 

5. MOVE WITH HITCHHIKING:

Although often local dwellers do not fully grasp why you didn’t rent a car, they are nevertheless so genuine and helpful that they pick you up after few minutes you are on the road. Just jump in the car. No payment is needed. The more you are in remote places, the better it works. I didn’t try in Muscat as buses were so cheap and people in the capital don’t normally stop, unless they are taxis. Therefore, what you can do is catching a Mwasalat bus to the closer main town and from there hitchhike to wherever you wish to go. Of course, for a solo traveller is much easier, as there is always a small corner in the car. But I guess it is feasible for two people as well. Although you may often need to jump in or off from several cars for even few Kilometers (according to the remoteness of the place), you won’t wait for the following lift too long. This is so fast that you can hitchhike for hundreds of Kilometers per day. Once, for example, I left Duqm in the early morning and reached Shannah (situated approx. 250 Km away, opposite to Masirah Island) in less than 4 hours, after switching five cars. Besides being cheap, catching rides is also very funny and interesting in terms of social contacts and conversations. You get so many different angles and opinions. Moreover, in Oman the level of English is not that bad at all, even among less educated people. Therefore, you may easily get involved in some fruitful talks when moving with them. And they often provide you with food and water! Such a nice local experience.

6. CAMPING: 

Another smart option to save money in accommodation is bringing or buying a tent. In my case, for instance, I didn’t come with this equipment. However, when I heard that in Oman you literally may camp everywhere, I decided to buy a cheap one in Bahla for only 11 OMR (around 23 Eur). Although later I mostly relied on couchsurfing, I felt by far more confident when trying to hitchhike in more distant areas. In case you get stuck somewhere along the way, you can always resort to this eco-friendly and appealing shelter. If you then camp even only for one night, you have already paid off your “investment”. For example, I camped once on a tranquil beach opposite to Wadi Shab entrance. It was certainly a good move to beat the crowd the following morning in the normally busy canyon. Another good reason for camping is the extreme safety of the entire country. You won’t very likely be bothered or admonished. On the contrary, that is seen as a very praiseworthy system to enjoy nature and good talks, also among the locals. So don’t hesitate to sleep under the stars or the full moon. You could be lucky and spot even some turtles in right times and places.

 

My austere tent in Wadi Shab
My austere tent in Wadi Shab

7. WALK IN MUSCAT:

There are a few nice stretches you can enjoy with an healthy and cheap stroll. In particular, from Ruwi to Mutrah (internally) and the awesome corniche between Mutrah and Old Muscat (about 5 panoramic kilometers along the bay). Very recommended.

 

View from Old Muscat
View from Old Muscat

 

8. RELISH THE FREE SIGHTS:

Attractions in Muscat like the imposing Grand Mosque, Mutrah’s souq, Mutrah’s fort or Old Muscat’s Bait Al Zubair all offer pleasant spaces free of charge. It goes without saying that outside the capital you have so much free wilderness that you won’t be thinking about your wallet at all.

 

Grand Mosque, Muscat
Grand Mosque, Muscat

 

To sum up, in spite of the fact that Oman theoretically should be an expensive country, it can instead become an incredibly cheap destinations for a flexible traveller. Besides saving some money, the afore-mentioned experiences offered me a closer contact with the locals and a more authentic way to cherish this stunning country. Oman is almost a dreamy land made of such amiable and generous people trying to help you in any manner, if only you give them the chance. And you won’t regret it.

Great host in Bahla
Great host in Bahla

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