In September 2021 the situation in Haiti was quite hot: in a span of few weeks a president was brutally murdered, an earthquake ravaged most of the territory and frequent hurricanes did the rest. The outcome is an unfortunate country constantly struggling to quit his atavistic misery and desolation.
Nevertheless, we curiously desired to experience a unique viewpoint over these neglected lands as well as sense the ill-concealed thrill to be among the very few tourists visiting those areas.
It was not an easy choice, with security (kidnappings, robberies, chaotic towns, etc.) and logistic issues (overpriced hotels, minimum services, out-of-service ATMs, etc.) at stake. But finally (and luckily) we decided to go for it.
REACHING THE DOMINICAN BORDER CITY DAJABON
We started the “Haiti operation” when staying in Las Terrenas, Samanà. We took a bus heading from the local station to Santiago. From there, we only had to walk a few meters to catch an Expresso Liniero minibus to Dajabon (around 3 hours and a half).
The border crossing points between the Dominican Republic and Haiti close at 6 PM Dominican time, and do not re-open until 8 AM the next morning. Arriving after 6 PM means you may not be able to cross until the following morning.
Although we could make it (we arrived in town at around 5 pm), we resolved to leave it for the following day and stay in a comfy budget hotel (Hotel Brisol, 800 DOP for a double room with bathroom), located at only 400 meters from the border line.
CROSSING THE BORDER
The day after, the process to reach and pass the border was quite smooth: short walking distance, quick Dominican customs and border formalities (a filled form and a 20 USD exit fee are requested); another rapid “promenade” and the Haitian border immigration step (7 USD are asked when entering). A green card is delivered and must be kept until the country is left.
As international tourists (the only ones), maximum priority is given to you and operations are really effortless. You can find many street money changers on both sides if you need to swap currencies. Rates are normal.
Notwithstanding, please remember to carry a good deal of cash with you from Dajabon (several ATMs are working in town).
As a last stop, you are required to skirt a refugees hangar on the right to be taken the body temperature and show vaccination certificates (any will do, even one shot). In the absence of that, I believe you may benefit from a free swab test.
ON THE HAITIAN SIDE
The border is located at around 2 Km from the local bus station. You may either grasp a mototaxi (1 USD / 100 HTG) or, as we did, walk the whole stretch.
The situation after the crossing is vividly different: messy traffic circulation, impassable sidewalks, garbage everywhere, thunderous street noise and intrigued gazes upon us, besides, of course, the previously unheard French-Creole language. Certainly no many tourists were seen peacefully walking on the street in the previous months.
THE BIG MISTAKE
Having read that ATMs were available at the other side, we did not worry too much about withdrawing more money in Dominican Republic. Regrettably, however, our 55 USD stash immediately dried up after paying the exit and entry fees. We later unpleasantly discovered that only 1 bank (Sogebank) had an ATM in town and that this cash machine was temporarily out of duty. In vain, then, we tried to bargain at the bus station to have our few remaining Euros and Mexican pesos accepted.
Categorically only Haitian gourdes (HTG) or US Dollars were trading currencies.
Unluckily the most reasonable option ultimately became the 2 Km u-turn towards the border, again walking the Haitian dusty roads under the midday scorching sun with our 25 Kg backpacks and without any water left. After awkwardly explaining to all guards and border officers the weird mishap, we fortunately got admitted back without any additional stamp or fee.
We got our lesson and withdrew abundant funds on the Dominican side. My piece of advice is to change at the border Dominican pesos directly into Haitian gourdes, together with enough dollars to pay the hotel (minimum 50 USD /night for a run-down double room), entrance fees to monuments (e.g. Citadelle Laferrière, 10 USD) and the border exit / entry fees (10 USD /person for Haiti + 10 USD for DR). When back again, this time we decided to hire a 1 USD mototaxi to get as far as the minibus station.
TO CAP HAITIEN
At the bus station the scenario got grotesque with pushy middlemen summoning us from everywhere to beg for money, buy stuff, change currencies and offer the minibus ride to Cap Hatien.
A toothless beastly guy finally grabbed our backpacks and placed them on top of the van together with other peoples’ tat and living poultry. He disgracefully forced us to pay the “luggage storage” almost more than our “seats” (500 HTG for 2 seats and 400 for the storage), even after we tried to negotiate a reasonable amount. No way.
In Haiti minivans only leave when completely full and crammed with 24 askew passengers.
However, the big hell only flared up once arrived at Cap Haitien terminal, where we got immediately surrounded by a group of fierce taxi drivers ready to almost slaughter each other to unrighteously grip our luggage from the roof. They directly contend with you for first receiving the baggage from the bus assistant. You had better to straightway move quickly away.
IN CAP HAITIAN
Given the political circumstances at that time (only the northern part of the country was considered acceptable for security), we focused our short stay in Cap Haitien (Haitian second largest city) and surroundings. We struggled a bit at the beginning with our showy backpacks to walk around and search for a hotel. The one we had previously bookmarked was closed and the inquired alternatives led to unbelievable prices. Eventually we got set with a decrepit shanty (Villa Creole HOTEL) near the main square (Cathedral square). It was the cheapest (50 USD) option we could find, without Internet and regular water supply (we had to shower with buckets filled with water). You have to pay in advance in USD your whole stay. For this reason we came to the conclusion of staying no more than 3 nights there. We could not spend more funds. These were our whereabouts:
CAP HAITIEN DAY 1:
a stroll around the city. We also found a dark local liquor shop selling 10 degrees Belgian beers for 1 USD : )
CAP HAITIEN DAY 2:
taptap to Milot (18 Km away), where again we got assaulted by locals to purchase taxi services, tourist guides, horse rides and entry fees. We adamantly refused everything and ascended the 7 Km uphill mule track partly on foot and partly by hitchhiking a workers’ lorry. Nevertheless, the hike, the superb overlooking view and the solitary beauty of the Citadelle Laferrière fortress (only Unesco World Heritage site in all Haiti) were definitely worth the sacrifice. In the evening we visited a bit the seafront (Boulevard du Cap Haitien), where fancy terrace bars mushroom.
CAP HAITIEN DAY 3:
we hired a taptap to cover the 8 Km distance to the once renowned Labadee. Once there, besides the usual middlemen attack, we bargained an initially 50 USD boat ride to Paradise Beach to a final 15 USD (7.50 each) with a local boatman. We were carried to this lonely white sand beach touched by warm turquoise water. Upon request, you may also ask to be dedicatedly cooked by local fishermen fresh sea snails, crabs or lobsters for few dollars each. A Paradise corner just behind hell : ) In the evening we went for the usual cheap beers towards the seafront.
Paradise Beach
CAP HAITIEN DAY 4:
After visiting the colorful, highly-populated marché de fer (local market) and exchanging the last gourdes, we ventured into the slums hectic alleys to reach the bus station and revert to the border, in the same way as in the first round. No particular issues detected, apart from the fact that the Ouanaminthe ATM then worked !!
It has been a great experience that I would recommend with prudence and some extra money probably exceeding a regular backpacker’s budget, but that for such an incredible, tourist-less adventure could be fully justified. We have been told that this is the only half-safe zone of the country, elsewhere whipped by wretchedness, insecurity and hard life.
From our tiny perspective, apart from amazed gazes upon us and much curiosity, we found a relatively safe environment even after dusk. People on the street showed themselves friendly and helpful, though sometimes a bit hard to understand : )
Hopefully we will better appreciate all our small Western-life comforts.
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