How to visit the Upper Suriname River and Brownsberg (Nature Park) by yourself

If you are an independent, low-budget, solo traveller, then your life is definitely harder (but probably more rewarding). Suriname is quite an affordable country though. Besides the usual travel channels (Couchsurfing, Workaway, Worldpackers, etc.), you may stay in the only youth hostel existing across French Guyana, Suriname and Guyana, that is the twenty4 Guesthouse (book online, it is cheaper than on the spot : ), located in central Paramaribo. From there, it is a short way to catch public transportation either at the bus station or in Saramacca Straat (close to the main market).

However, according to the info I could gather, it looks almost impossible to go beyond the Upper Suriname River and Brownsweg on a budget, meaning without a tour and/ or a flight (e.g. Raleigh Vallen or Palumeu). That being said, you may easily spend one week around there. To inspire you, here you have MY personal journey.

• FROM PARAMARIBO TO POKIGRON / ATJONI

Depending on the current situation (I was told there were bus drivers strikes in October 2022) you might wish to head for the bus station or the Saramacca Straat, as shown in the map below. Please be aware that on Sundays it might be a bit tricky to wander near the market (closed that day).  Although buses are fairly unpredictable, you stand excellent chances if you go there as early as possible in the morning. I personally managed to catch the minivan at 8.30 am sharp. The narrow minivan to the final road outpost (Pokigron / Atjoni) requires 3 hours, 1 stop for shopping and 150 SRD. Roads are paved and quite acceptable.

• FROM POKIGRON / ATJONI ON

In Pokigron / Atjoni you then need to catch a motor canoe stopping by at the several villages scattered around 78 (line) Km along the Suriname River. In my specific case, I absolutely had no idea where to stop by. I had not the faintest idea about prices or lodging conditions either. Along the Upper Suriname River, accommodation fares might range from few Euros / US Dollars to hundreds for luxury eco resorts (even available on Booking or Airbnb). It goes without saying that I asked for advice to the boatman about an affordable place. He clearly had a solution for me (and him too : )

In Atjoni you may have lunch, buy much water (very recommended) and other snacks. Prices are still very competitive here. Just remember that the last boats leave at 2 pm and the sun might be lethal at that time : ).  Unless you wish to pay for  a “shuttle” boat (private), you have to share it with other villagers and parcels. It takes around 4 hours to go as far as I went to (Ko-dou-fii lodge, near Asidonhopo), two more to move further to Cayana or three more to Awarradam (last outpost, only a lodge, no village around). I was asked 400 SRD for the stretch. The further you go, the harder it becomes for the boat to sail upstream. As a consequence, the pricier it gets. As an example, I was offered a further boat ride to Cayana (only 2 hours away) for the same fare (400 SRD) I initially paid to overcome a river stretch three times longer. They justify that with fewer passengers (fewer villages at the end) and more technical drawbacks when the river narrows down.

That being said, you have plenty of sleeping options, with villages quite similar one another. Apparently there are agreements between  boatmen and  lodge owners. They called one another according to their friendship. I was eventually dropped at an enticing nature lodge (Ko-dou-fii) in front of Tapawatra Sula, a series of captivating mini waterfalls, where you may also swim.

In the event you do not bring any food with you, you might ask them to cook something for you. Be aware, however, that options are very low key (rice with beans, sausage or bananas, or even only fried bananas, etc.). My hut had no fan, no electricity (small portable lamps available) and no plugs (I carried a solar power bank with me). Nevertheless there was toilet and a basic shower ensuite. The big issue there is connected with extreme heat and humidity in the late morning / afternoon; whereas in the evening you have a massive, bothersome presence of mosquitoes, which appear to be insensitive to repellent. After all, you are in the jungle, don’t forget. At the end of the day, 300 SRD per night (food expenses to be added) are still a nice deal. Maybe the worse drawback is the communication barrier if you do not speak Dutch. English is really poorly spoken. Ah, last but not least, bring a good deal of cash, the only payment method accepted, of course.

People are notwithstanding friendly and willing to help. I had rudimentary but honest conversations there. I did not see any will to fool or take advantage of me. I would say, however, that travelling alone without much talking with locals could be problematic for someone. In addition, the local perception of time is not the same as in Europe : )

• THE WAY BACK TO POKIGRON / ATJONI

It is exactly the same amount of time / fare you paid in the first place. Remember to warn your host the night before, as boats normally  run downstream in the morning (the further you catch the boat from, the earlier you have to get up). A boat picked me up from the dock at 6.30 am. From Cayana, for instance, boats should leave around 4 or 4.30 am, as I was told.

• TO BROWNSWEG & BROWNSBERG NATURE PARK

On the way back to Paramaribo I resolved myself to stop by in Brownsweg, a very dusty, little village only useful to access the Brownsberg Nature Park. From Atjoni jetty, you should not pay more than 100 SRD, even though smaller minivans will try to charge you up to 250 SRD at first. Go for the regular buses (leaving every hour or so) and keep your price. It will take you 1 h 15 min and 77 Km to get there. The only reasonable lodge available in town is Fargo’s place (ask the bus driver to pull off there), which you may negotiate at 400 SRD / night with A/C. For me, it wasn’t clear (October 2022) whether I could sleep in the Nature Park and how to reach it without a rented vehicle. The wisest option, then, it looked like sleeping at Fargo’s, leaving my heavy backpacks in the room (unless you carry a tent), buying some water plus snacks the day before and endeavouring to hitchhike or walk at least up to the viewpoints for 12 or 13 Km (one way). Please bear in mind that next to Fargo’s (at the gas station) you only have two Chinese supermarkets and a Chinese takeaway open till 9 pm or so. No other eating options available.

• IN BROWNSBERG NATURE PARK

Therefore, to avoid blistering hours and palliate the uncertainty, I decided to get up early in the morning (5.30 am), even though at Fargo’s they could not guarantee safety for me. By starting to walk at 6 am, you may relish quietness, cool weather and morning energy.  In truth, I hardly met anybody until the Park headquarters, where I bumped into Herbert (the guardian) and another serviceman. The surroundings looked like abandoned since years. Nevertheless, in a poor English, Herbert advised that the structure is in fact working (both restaurant and lodge) provided that you head there during weekends or call him in advance (phone number +5978749848) in week days. A triple room costs 600 SRD (perhaps if you are alone you may bargain a lower price). Don’t forget to pay the symbolic entry fee to Herbert himself, a fair sum of 70 SRD to clean all the trails and viewpoints.

Since I was wrecked and I had to walk back 12 more Km, I limited myself to visit the Mazaroni viewpoint (sublime glimpse on Brokopondo huge artificial lake) and Irene Val, according to Herbert the best waterfall (no much dropping water in October though). Both may be absolutely reached independently by adding a few more kilometres to the bundle. Summing all up, I was back to Fargo’s at 2.30 pm after 35 total kilometres. Doable, yes, but probably better to sleep one night in the park, now that you know it is open : )

In terms of wildlife, I honestly could not see much apart from a few monkeys, butterflies and many insects : ) but strolling around alone in the midst of the jungle is somehow mystic nonetheless. It is definitely recommended in my modest opinion. If you then wish to add more trails and waterfalls (e.g. Leoval, Koemboeval, Mazaronival, etc.), you are consequently obliged to spend at least one night on the top (you have to ascend approximately 450 mt from Brownsweg). The climate is doubtlessly fresher and windier up there.

As for hitchhiking, well, Suriname is not a great country for that : ) You could be lucky or not. But always be prepared for the worst…

From Brownsweg you may easily reach Paramaribo by minivan (price should be 30 SRD for the Paramaribo – Brownsweg – Paramaribo bound bus leaving at 11 am) in 2 hours from the bus stop opposite Fargo’s. Buses coming from Atjoni cost 100 SRD instead (they are more frequent though).

To summarize, here you have an affordable but intrepid experience which you may carry out on your own. As said earlier, I believe it represents the only real option to explore Suriname’s inner lands on a backpacker budget. Please let me know if you have more suggestions of this kind!

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