Again, as for French Guyana and Suriname, you need to cross a river to pass the border overland. The process is quite lengthy but straightforward. You have even a direct “shuttle” option from Paramaribo to Georgetown taking about 10 – 12 hours and costing approx 50 USD + ferry (14 – 15 USD). By doing it on your own, however, you may save a few dollars and complete the challenge with more satisfaction, I believe. As for me, having no time pressure, I decided to split the journey in two days.
-
PARAMARIBO – NIEUW NICKERIE
From the central bus station, you have two public minivans a day (6 am or 1 pm) leaving to Nickerie in 4 or 5 hours. The cost is only 50 SRD (about 2 USD). There must be even private minivans heading straight to the border (South Drain) at a much higher fare though. I believe they leave very early in the morning to intercept the 10 am ferry (but you have to be there by 9 am at the latest).
Since Nickerie stands at 38 km from the border, then you need 30 minutes more to reach the ferry departure point (South Drain). In Nickerie I found a comfy hotel, Concorde, close the bus station for 400 SRD, with a decent (and cheap) Indian restaurant included too.
-
NIEUW NICKERIE – SOUTH DRAIN (BORDER)
This is the trickiest part, as apparently no public buses go there. Hence, either you book a cab or you search for private minivans heading there. In my case I headed for the bus station early in the morning (7 am) and asked around. Taxis charged a hefty sum of 500 or 600 SRD. Finally, from the tourist office they called a shared minivan for me to be picked up directly at my hotel. We agreed 300 SRD. Lately, I discovered that the ride only cost 200 and that 100 were the “service fee” for the public officers contacting the driver. Going back then, I would stand for the 200 SRD, of course : ))
Be reminded that the minivans start to collect people from 7 am, as there is just one ferry per day leaving at 10 or 10.30 am and you need time (at least 1 hour) to buy the ticket (435 SRD, 14 – 15 USD), stamp your passport out and arrange other stuff (money exchange, food, duty free, etc.). They even told me that after 9 am the access to the customs area is closed. In the event you wish to change money, you have unfortunately to rely on one or two profiteers applying very bad exchange rates. On the other side I could not see much either. Definitely better thus to arrive with the exact amount to get as far as a Georgetown ATM (Scotiabank is working).
In order to access the inner area, you will have to show your passport and yellow fever certificate.
By the way, there is also another border crossing point called “backtrack”, on more precarious boats straight from Nickerie to Queenstown, which could be shorter and faster for the same price (but saving the taxi fare to South Drain). Nevertheless, I could not be confirmed (October 2022) that immigration offices were available for stamping out and in. I honestly did not try it not to incur into other issues.
-
THE CROSSING
The crossing takes place on a big ferry (vehicles admitted) in about 30 – 40 minutes to the opposite Guyanese town of Moleson Creek.
-
FROM MOLESON CREEK TO GEORGETOWN
In Moleson Creek you need to walk through a prolix customs process (more than 30 minutes) at the end of which you will be asked for passport, immigration papers (handed by the ferry company) and yellow fever certificate. Covid-19 vaccination or test were not required to me, even though they technically were still both compulsory in October 2022. Your bags will be eventually scanned to check if you are importing any illegal food (meat above all). Once cleared out, I was given 30 days visa free (EU citizen).
After exiting the customs zone, you will be immediately tackled by the minibuses drivers proposing you the same, whopping “cartel” fare of 5,000 GYD (about 25 USD) for a seat to Georgetown (3 – 4 hours with lunch break in between). The good thing, at least, is that you may be dropped directly at your final destination door. The driver even called my Couchsurfing contact to coordinate the arrival.
You can try to inquire drivers on the ferry if you may tag along. I was not lucky in truth. And apparently hitchhiking (like in Suriname or French Guyana) is not that easy either.
That being said, it was a long but effortless border crossing. Watch out for news on the backtrack option and the ever-changing legal requirements for both countries. You never know.
