Included in a wider national trekking network called Sendero de Chile (aka “Chilean trail”), the 24 Km route between Rupanco Lake and Todos Los Santos Lake is a remarkable, less-trodden path on a centenary Mapuche’s way.
It is definitely a fascinating route with little human presence, connecting two turquoise-blue lakes in the Andean region (Los Lagos region).
Although generally well-marked, the trail sometimes loses itself among thick vegetation and misleading meadows. This is why I would advise to bring with you an offline (no internet signal) GPS application (such as MAPS.ME) providing you with double-check evidence. On the contrary, altitude is not a problem (we are below 1000 mt high). In a rainy day or rainy season mud could become quite troublesome. But let’s see in detail all the movements.
DAY 1
1) FROM OSORNO OR PUERTO OCTAY TO PUERTO PONCHO
Although we caught the bus (operating only from Monday to Friday) at a countryside crossroad, it is certainly possible to board from Osorno or Puerto Octay. Final destination should be Puerto Rico or Puerto Poncho. Given the condition of the local unpaved roads, the journey might last some time.
2) BOAT FROM PUERTO PONCHO TO GAVIOTA OR WALK
Once you get off from the bus, you have two options:
2a) Embark on a small boat coasting the shore and taking around 1 hour. Timetable is here. The boat only leaves at certain days and hours. It only costs 200 CLP (about 0,25 Eur).
2b) Walk the almost 8 km to reach the trail starting point located in Gaviota, right at the south-eastern corner of the Rupanco Lake.
In Gaviota you will be able to find a tiny shack (“kiosco”) selling basic, canned food and beverages. I would recommend, though, to bring some water for the first part of the trail (7 Km) up to Laguna Los Quetros. A few Kilometres after the lagoon you will encounter some mountain torrents where to draw drinking water from.
3) TREKKING FROM GAVIOTA TO LAGUNA LOS QUETROS (7 KM)
The trekking starts just above the ferry’s dock. You will have to open a fence door and ascend uphill for about 800 meters until you catch sight of a road sign pointing you to the left towards Los Quetros. From there the chances of getting lost are quite low. It should take around two or two and half hours to reach the charming blue lagoon, with a difference in altitude of aprox. 600 meters.
The only pitfall is the copious mud scattered around all the trail, especially along the several “tunnels” dug to overcome the dense forest.
Before getting as far as the big lagoon, you will notice a small one on your left. The arrival at the big lagoon is a soothing and rewarding moment to have a bath in its delightful chilly waters. It is advisable to get there at least one hour before sunset, exactly to fulfil your swimming “duties” and prepare your tent for camping. The camping site beside the lagoon is an excellent spot to stake your tent. There are barbecue and bathroom facilities too.
However, be informed that the supposed owner will visit you on a horse around 8 30 – 9 am the following day to get the payment of 7000 CLP. We did not see any information plaque about that. Besides, the man on the horse did not identify himself nor had any change to give back.
As a result, you have two options to avoid this situation: camp a bit further or leave before 8 30 am.
DAY 2
4) FROM LAGUNA LOS QUETROS TO TERMAS EL CALLAO (7 KM)
This section is quite tricky.
Due to the trampling animals, many trails branch off from the main one.
We got lost a couple of times here. There are several ups and downs to rivers where you can have a break and refill your water bottle. Much shadow to hide from the scorching sun too. Many GPS apps do not recognize the thermal spring. You will notice a clearing with an attached house and signpost. 50 meters past the house, you can descend to the river where you will find the pleasant surprise: handcrafted thermal tubs to relax for a while.
Although it would be perhaps more beneficial to spend time here at night, you might as well mix some freezing water from the river with the boiling water of the spring. The result is very effective. Here again the payment system is a bit erratic: the house owners can pass by at any time, above all after 5 pm we were told.
5) FROM TERMAS EL CALLAO TO TODOS LOS SANTOS (10 KM)
Mostly downhill, this part is not very complicated. There are only a couple of clearings which conceal the track footprints. In addition, you will have to coast the river bed for a while. The track will make you cross 3 bridges before being able to gaze at the lake in the distance. Again, pay attention to the abundant mud and slippery rocks all across the path. You can find drinking water in many points. The atmosphere is quite refreshing beneath constant trees and along comforting streams. Finally, you can see the imposing Puntiagudo Volcano on your right.
6) FROM THE END OF THE TRAIL TO PETROHUE OR PEULLA
The trail ends exactly at the lake. From there you will have to somehow catch a boat leading you to paved ports. It is maybe better to inquire about timetables and services in advance, to avoid getting trapped on the beach. I got told that you may contact the following people to arrange further transportation:
a) Altamirano family, living in Refugio Dos Condores, between TERMAS EL CALLAO and TODOS LOS SANTOS
b) Rudy Yefi, manager at Termas el Callao.
The boat services might turn out to be quite expensive. We were actually rescued just in time by a small boat.
All in all the trekking was a really enjoyable adventure.
Lavish nature, thriving rivers and towering volcanoes are the main surrounding elements of this pleasurable, less-touristy path.
The trail can be covered in 1, 2 or 3 days according to anyone’s needs. It is preferable to use a couple of days though, to spend time in the Lagoon and in the thermal springs.
